Here's a place to start.

Larry
www.fineelectricco.com

This message was edited by mhe4 on 03/02/04 11:41.

OK. I think I'll try a hardwired approach, first, and then, if that is not satisfactory, I'll try RF.

Now to the nitty gritty. I propose to have a double gang electrical box containing a receptacle in one gang and a passive bridge (this one [Link: homeautomationnet.com] ) in the other. Coming in would be a 12/2 romex-like wire from the branch circuit of the X10 transmitter. Also coming in would be 12/2 from the output of the UPS. The input of the bridge would be spliced into the branch circuit sourcing the X10. The output of the bridge would be spliced to the line from the UPS, and also pigtailed to the receptacle. The appliance module would then be plugged into the receptacle, and the projector would be plugged into the appliance module.

Counting box capacity... 2 from circuit originating the X10 signals, 2 from UPS , 2 for bridge device, 2 for receptacle, 1 for the grounds, thus requiring box rated for 9 #12 conductors. No sweat for double gang box.

Voila! Power-protected, X10 controlled projector. Sound OK?

Regards.

DG

I'd try a simple plugged-in version first, just to make sure it works. Actually, I'd try it with nothing but the transmitter and module, just to see if the signals can get through the UPS. If not, then try the bridge with two plugs on it. If that works, then go ahead with the installed version.

Keep it as simple as you can.

Larry
www.fineelectricco.com

Excellent idea. I will try it, as you suggest.

But, I was thinking a little further, and whether I need a bridge or not, I'd like to modify my previous plan. I wonder if it's possible. The projector has a male line voltage power connector built-in to the chassis. Typically, you plug one end of the power cord into the wall receptacle, and the other end into the male connector on the projector. I want to power the projector from the UPS, say 15' away. I'd like to have the wiring hidden (in wall). But, I wouldn't even think of running the projector's power cord through the wall to plug into the power source (in my case, an appliance module plugged into a UPS). I would run 12/2 NMB through the wall to a outlet box beside the UPS. So, I will have a receptacle that is not a source of power, but a *sink* of power. I will locate it in an unusual location (near the ceiling in the equip closet), and I will label it clearly, but, what I'd really like is to have a male power connector (similar to the male connector on the projector itself) in that outlet box. In other words, I want to bring the male power connector on the projector chassis to the immediate vicinity of the UPS. Then I could use a common power cord, say the one that came with the projector, to plug from the UPS (with appliance module) to the projector. The chief advantage would be that no one would ever think that that recptacle is an ordinary power-supplying receptacle. By being a male connector, like on equipment, it would signal that it is a consumer, not a provider, of power. And, no one could ever plug any appliance or lamp into it.

So, the question is, can I buy a male power receptacle? (Do they exist?)

What I have in mind is either a male version of a regular receptacle, or something like this: [Link: mpja.com]
that couold mount in an outlet box. If I can't buy such a thing, what about getting a blank cover plate, and making my own mounting hole, and then using a device like in the link. I'm very comfortable soldering connections.

Regards,

DG

This message was edited by davidgrove on 03/03/04 17:31.

How about a slight change? Use a power cord cable-clamped to the junction box, and plug that into the UPS. You could even cut your existing power cord and hardwire both ends to the NM, basically using it as a sort of in-wall extension.

Larry
www.fineelectricco.com

Larry,

Boy, you just always seem to have a "tip" that really helps things along. Thanks.

Actually I had thought of hardwiring one end (don't know why only one), but hesitated because I thought that might be a code violation (runing non-sheathed cable into a box). However, I've actually done that in the past to connect rope light. Figured it was less offensive to code to have two inches of zip cord in a box (spliced immediately inside the box), than to dim a receptacle. I believe it is perfectly safe.

So, I think I'll take your suggestion.

Thanks Larry, you have been very helpful.

Regards,

DG