I'm looking for a way to add IR remote control power (120 VAC) switching (on/off) to two power amps in my home theater system. In effect, I need two individually controlled switched outlets. Ideally, each outlet would be rated for 15 amps, but this is not an absolute requirement. I am familiar with Xantech (too expensive) and X-10 (more complex than I prefer). Ultimately I will teach the IR on/off commands to my Philips Pronto and never have to get out of my easy chair.

X10 is too complex? Two appliance modules and a IR543 with your Pronto you are in bussiness.

How about a way to turn on your amps on that is not even IR controlled? You said it when you said 120v switched outlets. try this for about 75 bucks. Xantech makes what they call the AC1. Its a 12 volt, relay, triggred outlet. If your receiver has a 12 volt out or even a 120vac outlet it will work. For 120vac aplications get a 12vdc wall wart power supply, cut the ends off strip back the wires and screw them down on the AC1's screw terminals, next get a cheep 6 outlet power strip and plug it into the AC1's 120vac electrical jack. Plug in your 2 amps and maybe a CD, DVD, Tape deck, 8-track, reel to reel, ect. Plug the wall wart into the 120VAC switched outlet in the back of the receiver. IF you have no outlets on the back of your receiver 12VDC or 120VAC try the niles AC2 $250.00. this peice is way cool. Plug your receiver into the current sensing outlet, adjust the sensitivity
plug in a 6 outlet power strip into the switched outlet, plug your 2 amps into the outlet strip and (WOA-LA) switched outlets without the needed cost of IR. 6 other ways of doing what you want to do come to mind, but these 2 I would start with first. Or try Panamax, Furman, Monster cable, Russound, Etc. Stay away from X10 stuff not only is it JUNK!!! it uses non buffered switching, could cause premature equipment failure or power supply fuses to blow quite often. I have seen a lot of people have problems with X10 and some people swear by it.

Good Luck
















Good Luck.

Larry :

you say :
"Stay away from X10 stuff not only is it JUNK!!! it uses non buffered switching, could cause premature equipment failure or power supply fuses to blow quite often"

Can you explain what "non buffered switching" is and how it can cause premature equipment failure.

To put it in terms that most poeple can understand. if it is non buffered, that means that when the relay contact is open 0 volts is getting to the equipment. When the relay is closed 115 volts is getting to the equipment. As soon as that relay closes and you SLAM the power supply with all that current and voltage, at the speed of light no doubt (100,860,000 mph) and over time things can take its toll. Think of it like a new car. Every time you go to take off from a red light you rev the motor to 7000 rpm and hold the clutch in and wait for the light to change. Once the light turns green you drop the clutch out to be the first off the line and you smoke your tires. How many times do you think you can burn out befor something breaks. Like a drive shaft, U joint, CV joint, Diferental, whatever. Buffered will vary the voltage from 0 to 115 volts in small steps or increments so fast that you really can,t tell. But back to the car. How long will your car last if you drive it like it was intended to be driven?!? What I am talking about are people who use lamp modules intended for lights. Plugging in the A/V equipment into it to get at best a CHEZZE'Y home automation system. Most light bulbs can withstand non buffered switching, but think how much that $5.00 light bulb would last if its switching was buffered. I would guess 10X longer Be carfull thats all I am trying to say. Repair costs can be expensive.

Good luck

Larry that certainty is a very creative explanation but you really don't have a clue what you are taking about do you? Perhaps you should read the post entitled "smart people and dumb people" and determine if it applies in this case.

Westie, Perhaps my explanation was to advance for you to understand. When I have time I will rewrite it so a 2nd grader can understand it. In a less technical fourm. My thoughts on X10 still stand and everything about it SUCKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Larry,

I've been using X10 for about 20 years and it does not suck. It has it's problems and limitations but they are easily addressable, all at a price of about 1/3 of the cost of a hard wired control system.

I think it's pretty obvious that a $9 switch isn't going to perform to the same standards as a $200 switch but there are some very good switches in the $50-$90 range that do the job quite nicely. (Maybe when you say 'X10' you're talking only about 'X10 brand'?)

X10 isn't for everyone but it is for many of us. My current system would cost less than $1500 at today's prices and gives me the performance of a $5000 or $6000 Lutron system. For that savings I can easily spend some time addressing the X10 platform.

Would it not be nice to have a system that has no tweeks, bugs, or glitches that from time to time need to be worked out. Or a system that once installed and programmed works right from the start. To get these systems, they do cost the bucks. I like to spend the extra money to get the good stuff that works really good. I hate to Dick around with stuff that breaks all the time. When I was in highschool 15 years ago I bought a X10 system from radio shack. I thought it was cool. Once my career took off and I started to make some real money I bought a house in South California and dialed it in with a super cool AMX lighting system that also controls my AV equipment. You see in my house I have no light switches in the house. I have a utility closet with racks and racks of light dimmers. In each bedroom are LCD touch pannels that controls HVAC, Audio, Video, and Lighting. Infact I can even watch a DVD on my LCD touch pannel if I really wanted to. To take it even one step beyound that I can even access my website that I have and bring up my AMX system on my work computer and through DSL downstream real time DVDs and CD's or check my CCTV cameras right to my computer, Even adjust the temp on my refrig. if need be. Did I mention that I can Pan and Tilt and Zoom in my cameras from work if I wanted to. The system that can do this is called NetLinks by Panja/AMX. On advantage I have over some people is I know how to program all of this. It pays to know C++ and Java when writting code in a language called Axcess. (ASCII and others) So I come from an opinon that yes I have seen a lot of Home automation equipment cheep and expensive. I've intergrated it and I know the limitations of it. I have my fav's and my Dislikes. If you like the concept of Automation but can't really buy the good stuff then X10 is the way to go. I will get you down the right path for starters.

Good Luck

Correction it is called Weblinks not netlinks although I have each.

Larry : perhaps you can elevate your explanation from the second grade level and actually use terns that have some meaning in electronics. Instead of talking about u joints and drive shafts why don't you explain how this "buffered AC switch" that you made up actually works and how not having one effects the equipment that is being switched on. Don't be afraid to explain how dV/dt , dI/dt ripple current on the input capacitors are affected by not having a buffered switch. How about if you have under voltage lock out on the supply or soft start? Does it matter if the supply has fast recovery diodes or not? What about over shoot on the supply rails? Please explain Larry because in the products that I have designed (with well over 100,000 in use now) I have never needed your "buffered AC switch"

Yet once again Westie, the size of your BRAIN baffles me. And yet once again you failed in every aspect as understand my point. And because you want to get into an Electrical debate. I need to rise up and be the stronger person here and refuse to play your 2nd grade antics. As for you, I guess you will never know The point I was trying to make in general term as to not get into to much detail that the normal non pocket protector geek would understand. So from this point farther consider the issue closed. I know my S*@T, and you are the last person I need to prove it to. MY POINT WAS ON BUFFERED SWITCHING!!!! HELLO!!! not the propper way to build a power supply.

HAVE A GOOD DAY.

Larry,

The high-end systems are great but they aren't for everyone. X10 had advanced far beyong those cheap Radio Shack, or even BSR, modules we used in the early '80s.

Now, what was the cost of your fancy AMX system?

I'm controlling 25 indapendant channels (loads) with three in-wall keypads, a Phillips Pronto touch-screen remote, a programable automation controller, and a couple of RF transmitters. I have full scene control, soft-start, variable ramp rates, etc. and complex programmed events, some of which taking over 10 minutes to fully play out. Total cost was less than $1500.

So Larry you really can't explain what a "buffered AC switch" is can you?

Just wondering: Is all regular AC outlets buffered - or do they destroy our equipment ?