Sorry, forgot you were looking for a 3 way compatible switch, not just a lamp module. Correct, they are a bunch more expensive. :-S

nygiants,
You can see what you need at www.x10pro.com look for the PLW02. it comes with the two switches you will need for a 3-way switch setup. these are basic switches however, and you will need the PC controller interface to set your scene. the money you save on the switches may get you the controller. Just a thought.

Vincent, how did you initially program the switches to accept remote PC commands? Did you use the PCH02?

Get an IR543 unit (sold online or at Radio Shack). Set the house code and plug it in. Then, if you have a remote that has x-10 codes, just point and click. That simple. The IR543 receives the IR comands from the remote, converts them to x-10, and sends the comand through the house wiring to that number switch. Channel up/down is to dim.

Hey Vincent...so far so good. I have basic stuff going (ir543,mx500,lamp modules and switches). Things are starting to make more sense and I understand your previous posts much better. Next step is to get the PC involved. I will be purchasing the CM11A or 1132CU. 1132CU is 3 times as much so not sure if it's necessary. I may go with the cm11a even though it's serial vs. usb. How is the software that came with the CM11A? I wonder if the 1132CU software is that much better.

This is something I was curious about. Do you have 2-way switches or modules since you are using the PC? Is it worth it to have them? My understanding is that the 2 way will send a message back to your PC to let you know status if it's on or not. Not sure if I need that but it seems like that would be good information to have.

thanks again for your help

Can anyone help me out with my questions on the previous posts about the CM11a, 1132CU, and 2 way switches? I'd like to buy this stuff today if possible. Thanks.

I'll try and help a little, though I'm not familiar with the 1132CU.

You mention getting the PC involved. How? That makes a difference on what you need.

I didn't think the CM11A came with any software. I use the CM11A with the free software downloaded from PCS to program my PCS switches. Others seem to use it with various home autotmation programs such as Homeseer. Unless I'm missing something (which may be the case), you don't need more than the CM11A if you're just programming switches.

So far as 2-way switches are concerned, most people feel they shouldn't be used unless they are necessary for feedback to your computer system. The problem is the possibility of collisions on the power-line. If you're using software on your computer to run your household, which I get the idea you're not, at least at the present, you probably shouldn't have them. If you're planning on going "all the way" into computer controlled home automation, that's another issue.

Now, to complicate this a little further, some feel that if you don't use but a very few 2-way switches, you're in pretty good shape on the collision issue. I'm not sure why a few is safer than many, perhaps because in scene lighting you could have 3 or 4 devices all trying to output X-10 at the same time. Just guess about that.

I realize my answers aren't as complete as you'd probably like, but perhaps they'll draw someone else into the discussion with more experience with something like the 1132CU.

Thanks for the response. maybe I'm the one missing something. What is on that CD that comes with the CM11A in the picture on the website? I thought that was the software. The 1132CU comes with the Smarthome Manager software. It looks pretty cool on the website. If the only difference between the 1132CU and CM11A is serial vs. usb than it doesn't justify the difference in cost. I'll go with the CM11A.

let me understand something cause I'm not sure how the CM11A works. While it's plugged in and connected to your PC can you see a schematic of your different modules and switches on you computer screen? Or do you just program it to send out certain signals at certain times to automatically control your modules?

I don't recall getting a CD with my CM11A. Are you sure it's not packaged with some sort of home automation software? I think of the CM11A as only a method of connecting the computer to the powerline. Nothing else.

I think the schematic of the different modules and switches happens with the more sophisticated home automation software, something I have no experience with. The PCS software I use communicates with PCS switches and modules only, and then doesn't receive any information from them. It simply sends them instructions on what do which they retain in their memory. Once the switch is programmed, I disconnect the computer and put the CM11A back on the box.

Home automation programs are a different thing all together and something I don't have knowledge of. They require a computer to be running at all times. I do have an Ocelot running at all times, which is a mini-computer (or CPU), but that's a different thing altogether. Some people use a computer with Homeseer and an Ocelot in conjunction with each other.

Some of this may seem a little hard to grasp, and that's mostly because there are so many different ways to put these components together and different ways to approach home automation. Anywhere from simple to complex.

If you purchase the ActiveHome package, which includes the CM11A, from x10.com, it definately comes with the ActiveHome software on CD-ROM. This software gives you an on-screen picture of the switches and modules which you have told it about, shows whether each is on or off (or at what dim level), and allows you to switch/dim each. It also allows you to create macros and schedules, which may be downloaded to the CM11A and will then be executed by the CM11A even if it is disconnected from the computer, or the computer is off.

You may be able to purchase the CM11A by itself, outside of the ActiveHome package, from other sources. But even if you do, the ActiveHome software may be freely downloaded from x10.com.

The CM11A will likely provide all the functionality a beginner needs. Once you outgrow it, the next step up, IMO, would be an Ocelot. I have no experience with the 1132CU PowerLinc Controller or its associated software, but it does look very interesting. It appears to be functionally similar to the CM11A, but looks as though it has much more memory (32KB) and can store many more commands (1000), than the CM11A, as well as having a USB interface. If you do decide to try the 1132CU, be sure to let us know how it works :-).

Hey nygiants, i'v been away. You can download the latest version of ActiveHome from the x-10 website. I would recommend picking up the CM11A on ebay if you can find it cheap. Probably around $25. Plug it in to an outlet, and attach the cable from your PC serial port to the unit. power up the PC and launch ActiveHome. Now, you can place differnt types of x-10 devices on your activehome "canvas". for example, a wall switch. then you would label the switch to coincide with the actual location in your home. let's say, den light. then you would assign the house code and switch number to coincide with your "physical" switch. Bingo, from you pc, you now can control the den light (on / off / dim). You can also set programs to control the den light. On at 7pm, dim at 9:45pm, off at 11pm., whatever. once your done, it downloads the program info to the cm11a so it will continue to run your program with the pc disconnected. Small investment and you'll have fun learning. good luck.

Thanks to everybody for the info in the last few posts. I ordered the CM11a on Ebay along with some more basic switches.
PCHeck...your post above leads me back to my question about 2 way modules. Are they required to send info back to the computer or will any standard module be enough?

I pulled this question of another thread that i posted. Anybody have any experience with the modules I discuss below?...

Does anyone have the 2384W switch? If so, how is it? Or, can I get by with the XPD3. I think both have local control and are 3 way. THe 2384W with slave costs about $70 combined vs. $30 total for the XPD3 and slave. Not sure of the major differences between them but all I really need is local control and 3 way so not sure if this will do the trick. I plan on controlling these things and adding scenes later anyway with a cm11a or equivalient.

Thanks again. You guys are great

If you *want* to send status back to the computer, then obviously you would need a two-way [as in send/receive; not to be confused with a three-way :-)] switch. Most times this is not necessary, and in fact is often not recommended unless needed, because all those extra transmissions can cause collisions.

The CM11A doesn't need the status to be sent back to it. It will send an 'ON' command, for example, whenever you tell it to, or whenever it is programmed to, whether that switch is already ON or not. Unless you *need* two-way switches, save your money for more important features. To some users, scenes are an important feature.

Where did you get the prices you quoted above? If you look here: you will find the 2384W Dimmer and 2382W Companion for $64 together. I have no experience with these switches, but it looks as though they require a neutral. If there is no neutral in your junction boxes, you could use the 2384W2.

At the same link, the XPD3 Dimmer ($18.59) and XPSS Companion ($9.29) are about $28.00 for both. There is also the XPS3 which takes the same XPSS Companion. The XPS3 is not a dimmer--it is an appliance-type (relay) switch, which can be used for fans, outlets, or other appliance-type loads.

The XPD3 is the X10 Pro version of the standard X10 WS12A, available at , where it is right now at 2-for-1 pricing, and can sometimes be found at 3-for-1 pricing. It is identical to the XPD3, but the XPSS Companion is not available from www.x10.com.

All of the above switches will work in three-way, four-way, etc. circuits. I have several WS12A with XPSS in three-way circuits, and well as several XPS3 switches. They work. They don't have scenes, and obviously they are not of the same quality as the more expensive switches. But they are cheap.

Vincent or anyone out there who has the CM11a and set up macros or scenes.

I was just curious about resonse time. I set up a "pseudo" scene downstairs but I very suprised at the slow response time. I was wondering if this was normal and if other people experience this also. I'll hit the button I set up on the mx-500. It will pause for a couple of seconds, raise the lights to full brightness, pause for another few seconds, then dim to the set levels. I didn't expect it to be instantaneous but I did expect quicker macro execution. any thought?

as far as I can tell, the speed of a macro is as fast as the speed of doing each step manually.