I was able to set up scenes using my remote by using macros. For example, my movie scene is established by turning on unit 9. Unit 9 is really a macro (virtual switch) that is set up to: Shut off all lights in room, turn on overhead lighting, dim to 25%. So with one button on my remote, the movie scene is created. What's nice is that the PC can be off. As long as the cm11a unit is plugged into an outlet somewhere in the home, it works. Very good product, I recommend it to anyone starting out with x-10.

Vincent, I'm interested in some of the stuff you've accomplished. Would you mind elaborating a little bit on the CM11a and how you set it up. I'm a little confused as to how the cmlla works in conjunction with everything. at this point, i only have the mx-500 remote but i'm looking to get some x-10 equipment. what other equipment is needed to do what you've accomplished?

thanks.

I would recommend that you start with 2-3 basic x-10 wall switches/plug-in modules ($12 radio shack). Also get a IR543 from Radio Shack. Check their web site for price, but it's not expensive. You may want to pick up the Radio Shack 5-in-1 remote ($12) which has x-10 codes so your remote can "learn" commands if it does not have x-10 already. I picked up the CM11A on ebay for $25. Once you have set up your switches/modules, you can use the IR543 buttons to control your lights or whatever. Next, get your remote programmed with the x-10 codes, and you can control everything with the remote. For example, you can program 1,2,3 to control each module on and off, and use channel up/down for dim/bright. The CM11A plugs into any outlet and the serial port on your PC. Use the ActiveHome software that comes with it (free download from x-10 website) and you can control everything from your PC. set up is fairly simple. you can program each unit to go/off at set times, dim and brighten, and many other functions. once your setup is complete, you can download the program to the cm11a module thats plugged in. now, the program controls everything as long as the module remains plugged in. even with the pc off. it runs off AAA batteries that last about a year. The cool part is that you can create a virtual module (macro) that can, for example, be unit #4. when you turn on unit 4, lights on 1 and 2 shut off and 3 goes on to 33% (movie scene). possibilities are endless. may sound confusing, but get the stuff and play. for under $100 you'll be an expert. hope this helps. sorry about the punctuation near the end hear but my dog jumped on my lap and i'm typing with one hand while she chews my other.

thanks for the post Vincent. Most of it makes sense. I guess once I started messing around with it I'll start to get become more familiar. I know I definitely need the IR543 so that I'll buy. My remote MX-500 does have x-10 codes so I may hold off on buying a remote. some quick questions on the other stuff...

1. I read that basic wall switches/modules won't work with scenes. I just want to clarify that in order to do your scenes you used scene capable gear and not basic stuff. Correct? I think I need a 3 way scene capable wall dimmer but not sure which one. (my lights are controlled by 2 different switches). Any idea which one will work?

2. I also wanted to clarify that the main purpose of the CM11A is to control everyting with your PC. If I wanted to leave that out for now, I'll still be able to do everything with the remote and IR543. I just won't be able to set things to go off/on automatically at certain times. Is this right?

3. I don't know much about electricity so this boggles me. If I plug the cm11a in the basement and give it a command to control something all the way upstairs it will work?? I didn't know electical wires are all connected in some way throughout the house.

thanks again for your post

"I didn't know electical wires are all connected in some way throughout the house."

Amazing

That didn't come out the way I meant it so I can understand the sarcasm.

I should have worded that better...All I meant was I'm not exactly sure how the process works. By using these modules you can send a current that travels throughout the house to control other things via receiver modules. I find that interesting.

nygiants,

to answer your questions to vincent:

1. basic modules don't do true scenes. If you want true scenes, you need scene capable modules. If you want to do wha tvincent did (ie create pseudo scenes via macros on the cm11a) then you can use basic modules. You are probably better off using actual scene modules (less X-10 traffic on the wires and more reliable).

2. right

3. yes, the modules will talk to each other from anywhere in the house WITH THE CAVEAT that you may need a phase coupler to connect the two 120v legs that make up your home wiring.

thanks. can you recommend a 3-way scene capable dimmer switch?

I've also been reading posts on getting my gas fireplace to work but it doesn't seem like a simple thing. I don't want to start running wires to the box where the contact closure toggle switch is. I would even use it with IR and forget x-10. But I can't find a simple contact closure wall switch that is controlled by IR. Maybe I'm off but this seems like a simple piece of harware. just can't find something like it on the internet.

1. I read that basic wall switches/modules won't work with scenes. I just want to clarify that in order to do your scenes you used scene capable gear and not basic stuff. Correct?
A. I used the basic stuff to save money. A basic wall switch is about $12, whereas a scene capable is about $70. When you are experienced and want to get fancy, then you can invest. You can always use the basic switches elseware. I am quite satisfied with the performance of the basic x-10.

I think I need a 3 way scene capable wall dimmer but not sure which one. (my lights are controlled by 2 different switches). Any idea which one will work?

A. Yes, you just need to purchase a 3 way master switch and a slave. You can still stick with basic X-10.

2. I also wanted to clarify that the main purpose of the CM11A is to control everyting with your PC.
A. You use your PC to program the CM11A. Then you can disconnect from your PC and plug it in anywhere and it will control everything.

If I wanted to leave that out for now, I'll still be able to do everything with the remote and IR543.
A. Yes, manually. However you won't be able to do scenes with one touch of the remote.

I just won't be able to set things to go off/on automatically at certain times. Is this right?
A. Correct. But you also can not do scenes without the CM11A. One feature of the CM11A is virtual switch. Once set up with your macro, when the virtual switch is turned on it will perform multiple tasks. For example, MOVIE SCENE button on your remote will turn on the virtual switch, which in turn shuts off all lights in the room, turns on two end table lamps and dims them to 20%. Therefore your scene.

3. I don't know much about electricity so this boggles me. If I plug the cm11a in the basement and give it a command to control something all the way upstairs it will work??

A. Yes. If for some reason it doesn't, then you just need to a. install a capacitor in your panel box($1). or b. by a phase coupler($50) and plug it in to your cloths dryer outlet.

Hope this helps. good luck. check out the smarthome web site and x-10 pro web site.

It helps a lot. Thanks. The amount of knowledge on this site is amazing. People are extremely helpful. Hey did you see this...
[Link: smarthome.com]

this thing looks great also. and it's usb which I prefer.

a little more expensive though.

Looks good. I agree usb would be the way to go.

nygiants and Vincent,

Again, I just want to clarify for you. You can get a computer controller (cm11a or 1132cu) and program "pseudo scenes" using basic modules. This works, don't get me wrong, but from what I've read, you run the risk of command collisions on the wires and unreliable/slower response operation. When you send your "pseudo scene" command (ie. your vitual switch address), I believe that sends a signal to the computer controller module which then sends out a series of commands in macro form; one or more to each module in the "pseudo scene".

The other option is to get scene capable modules and do true scenes (where one commands sent down the wire triggers multiple modules to do what you've told them to do internally.

I don't think either way is wrong, but each has its benefits and drawbacks.

If all you want is scenes then scene capabale modules are probably a better bet (although more expensive - mine were $24/ea from www.homeautomationnet.com <-- a sponsor/advertiser on this board).

If, however, you also want to be able to set up timed events requiring a computer setup/control AND money is very tight, you can get by with basic modules and the computer interface but you may be sacrificing reliability when it comes to the lighting scenes.

I hear what you're saying. Right now I only need one scene capable dimmer so I may start with that. I bought the IR543 last night and have an MX-500 remote already. This should get my home theater in order. I like the idea of PC control so that will be my next project. I would like that 1132CU to come down a little in price. Where did you see $24 for the modules? All the scene capable switches I looked at on that site are $50-$70. I'd rather not spend that much. I also need one that works with a 3 way since the lights are controlled by 2 switches. I asked this question a few times but nobody can tell me exactly which model to buy though.

Contact Bill from homeautomationnet.com. He is very helpful. The modules I got were teh Lamplink LS. Good price. Full scene capability (with ajustable ramp rate/level).

That makes sense now. I'm looking for the switches as opposed to the Lamplinc modules. The switches are a lot more expensive. Not sure why but they are.