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Topic:
Simple lighting control with T3
This thread has 16 replies. Displaying posts 1 through 15.
Post 1 made on Saturday May 26, 2007 at 13:21
morpheus40
Lurking Member
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March 2007
1
I have two lighting circuits in a TV room I want to control with a T3 system. What's the simplest and cheapest option without resorting to anything nasty like X10. I have an RP6 located fairly close to the two lighting switches so I could use RS232 or an IR repeater if needed.

One circuit is a single switch with a handful of cans (<400w) and the other is a two way circuit with a second switch and about the same load.

Thanks

Morph
Post 2 made on Saturday May 26, 2007 at 17:09
nardo1
Active Member
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628
Look at Lutron Spacer System... IR control window on front and back of the switch.
I'll let you know tomorrow..
Post 3 made on Sunday May 27, 2007 at 17:26
tgrugett
Select Member
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1,850
On May 26, 2007 at 17:09, nardo1 said...
Look at Lutron Spacer System... IR control window on front
and back of the switch.

I agree. Spacer is quick and easy.

Run a wire to the existing box, splice on an emitter, get creative on how to get the emitter to flash the back of the box and use the routing features of the RP6 to isolate control to individual dimmers if desired. They have 4 presets plus all off, dim up and dim down. With the IR routing you can expand the scene control beyond the intended 4 preset limit because you will have 4 x the number of controls you are using.
Post 4 made on Monday May 28, 2007 at 11:35
edizzle
Loyal Member
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5,916
lutron radio ra dimmers with rs232 interface at rp6. overkill but robust. system could be expanded to other areas of house.
I love supporting product that supports me!
Post 5 made on Monday November 19, 2007 at 12:41
jls944
Long Time Member
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55
do you have to point the remote at the switches when you turn them on?
Post 6 made on Monday November 19, 2007 at 17:52
Stephane
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980
On November 19, 2007 at 12:41, jls944 said...
do you have to point the remote at the switches when you
turn them on?

not if your using an RP-6
Post 7 made on Monday November 19, 2007 at 19:57
thefish
Founding Member
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1,721
On November 19, 2007 at 17:52, Stephane said...
not if your using an RP-6

With an emitter on the back of the Spacer
Post 8 made on Tuesday November 20, 2007 at 00:52
cheesehead22
Long Time Member
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May 2007
409
Mirro (Watt Stopper Legrand)has a nice little line for around $100 a switch and they are accessable from a rs232 station. Not sure on the price of the 232 station. Here is a link

[Link: wattstopper.com]
Don't read my answer. Someone else will go into great detail as to why I am wrong rather than answer the original question...
Post 9 made on Tuesday November 20, 2007 at 02:19
Ernie Bornn-Gilman
Yes, That Ernie!
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30,104
Be sure to read the specs on the controller to be sure it will switch and/or dim the type of light you have. Incandescent are no problem, fluorescents have to be made to be dimmed and incandescent dimmers will silently die if used with them....
A good answer is easier with a clear question giving the make and model of everything.
"The biggest problem in communication is the illusion that it has taken place." -- G. “Bernie” Shaw
Post 10 made on Tuesday November 20, 2007 at 07:35
Springs
Super Member
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May 2002
3,238
RP-6 with one port outputing IR to the spacer. Works. I would take it over the funky serial with the RA. If I was going to work a RA into it I would get graphic RA and the IR connector.

That ramp then stop on release is annoying when you don't have 2-way.
Post 11 made on Wednesday March 5, 2008 at 23:38
SAAudio
Advanced Member
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993
On May 27, 2007 at 17:26, tgrugett said...
Run a wire to the existing box, splice on an emitter,
get creative on how to get the emitter to flash the back
of the box and use the routing features of the RP6 to
isolate control to individual dimmers if desired.

How are you getting the wire into an existing electrical box? What about codes regarding cat5e in electrical box?

What are your experiences with Spacers?

Integrated with a few different Lutron systems, but have always used rs232. Looking to use this with simple lighting systems in theaters.

Last edited by SAAudio on March 6, 2008 09:56.
Post 12 made on Thursday March 6, 2008 at 00:31
stereoman4
Select Member
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December 2007
1,966
grafik eye mr series, with the infared interface.
www.goinnovativeaudiovisual.com
Cedia certified installer
ISF Certified 'It's not how many times you get knocked down but it's how many times you get back up and go forward"
Post 13 made on Thursday March 6, 2008 at 08:46
tabascojunkie
Long Time Member
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July 2007
255
For a simple application, I've used some of the higher quality X-10 products and thier IR controller w/ an RP-6 with excellent results. Just did a theater room with 5 lighting zones, and it works very well. If I were going to expand it to the rest of the house, I'd probably look for a different soultion...but I do like this one better than having to route IR to the switch.
Post 14 made on Thursday March 6, 2008 at 11:27
Groovit
Long Time Member
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February 2008
269
On March 5, 2008 at 23:38, SAAudio said...
How are you getting the wire into an existing electrical
box?

I actually stole the idea from David (RTI Installer)... He showed me on one of his jobs. Glue an emitter to the back of the dimmer, spray it black (if controlling several in the same box) and splice to the CAT5 outside of the box (draped over the front lip through the gap in the rock). separate emitters and painting the backs allows you to increase the scene potential from 4 to 4x the number of switches. I did one with two 2 gang boxes controlling lights in several rooms open to the family media room including the kitchen. This allowed them to control them individually and to create many more scenes beyond the media functions. One fun thing I did for an older couple is that when they shut it down at night, the lights will dim in a slow sequence following them out of the room but still giving them time to gather their things. That said... I did a couple of times just to do it and now it is off my radar.

What about codes regarding cat5e in electrical box?

No Comment!
What are your experiences with Spacers?

They work well. I have used them several times both in the multiple gang scenario described above and via direct line of sight and reflecting off of the TV wall to the dimmer behind).
Integrated with a few different Lutron systems, but have
always used rs232. Looking to use this with simple lighting
systems in theaters.

I see potential for several applications... one or two legs with good line of sight or dependable reflection (especially if lights dim automatically for DVD watching). If multi-location dimmers are used, a set could be placed in a hidden location behind a rack or in a service area so that you could "blast" them OR route them with IR covers over the window of the individual switches (just like the cable boxes). This second application would allow you to achieve a fairly sophisticated control scenario on the cheap, however, you would quickly bump into the cost of simply using a Graphic eye with 4 or more loads.
Post 15 made on Thursday March 6, 2008 at 11:58
SAAudio
Advanced Member
Joined:
Posts:
March 2007
993
On March 6, 2008 at 11:27, Groovit said...
I actually stole the idea from David (RTI Installer)...
He showed me on one of his jobs. Glue an emitter to the
back of the dimmer, spray it black (if controlling several
in the same box) and splice to the CAT5 outside of the
box (draped over the front lip through the gap in the
rock). separate emitters and painting the backs allows
you to increase the scene potential from 4 to 4x the number
of switches. I did one with two 2 gang boxes controlling
lights in several rooms open to the family media room
including the kitchen. This allowed them to control them
individually and to create many more scenes beyond the
media functions. One fun thing I did for an older couple
is that when they shut it down at night, the lights will
dim in a slow sequence following them out of the room
but still giving them time to gather their things. That
said... I did a couple of times just to do it and now
it is off my radar.

Does paint type matter? How warm do the dimmers get? Would automotive paint be recommended or just regular spray paint work?

No Comment!

Thats what I thought.

Thanks
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