Should have been able to shear off those tapcons.mthey do not stand up to being twisted. Broken many off.

+1000


This is what I picked up 2-3 years ago.

[Link: us.hilti.com]

[Link: us.hilti.com]


I've been using this for kustom install of outdoor lighting, it would probably work for mounting also

[Link: homedepot.com]

+1 Tapcons suck hardcore unless you're just hanging J hooks from concrete or something then they are still a PIA.

Talk him into a projector and a Motorized screen.

He already remodeled the room. I'm going to have to retro speakers and fix what he pulled to the TV. It's a shame too because it would have been nice to add some deck speakers and some speakers out by the patio.

Lots of Tapcon haters in this thread. I'm in Florida where all my customers homes are block/stucco or poured concrete. I exclusively use Tapcon concrete anchors. On inside walls we use the 3 1/4" straight through the drywall and on outside (lanai) installations we use 1 3/4". These things are way stronger than structural screws in a wood stud or snaptoggles in drywall. I'm 180lbs and I do pull-ups on these wall mount brackets before hanging the display. There isn't anything easier or stronger out there. Tapcons for the win....

My problem with tapcons isn't the strength. It's that I've never had great luck getting them to tighten and not strip out

I drive them in with an impact and haven't stripped one in years. If I do run across a stripped hole that I must use, a little 1" piece of speaker wire is all that's required. I stripped a few when I started out, like anything else it just takes a little practice.

I like to use mortar cement then insert sleeve anchors.
Rock solid.

Do you use their drill bit, or your own? I have a set of Bad Dog bits and the smaller TapCons don't work with the 3/16"" bit, but the 1/4" and 5/16" do. I gave up on the small TapCons because my Milwaukee hammer drill twists the heads off every time. If a stud sticking out isn't a problem, I sometimes use wedge anchors (NOT Acme-Johnson).

Have used Togglers a few times in cinder block. Great for metal studs, too. They are awesome.

[Link: toggler.com]

Available at Lowes

These threads come up every few months. Everyone has their opinion on what is best.

I would only note that the needs are greater with an arm (which I would not do at all) vs. a flat or tilting mount.

If you use enough of them, the little plastic sleeves that come with a Snap mount, though not a first choice, are going to hold an LED TV of almost any size on brick. Because of the type of construction, I was recently unable to get togglers to open up behind some stucco on an exterior wall. There were no air spaces greater than 3/8 of an inch. The exterior coat of stucco was greater than 1 inch thick. The sleeves in quantity survived the fat boy test.

Note that my opinion would be to never attach the mount to the mortar, but always to the brick. I know there are differing opinions on this point.

I am about to mount a 55" sammy on a proper brick fireplace. I plan to use sleeve anchors in the center of the brick, possibly with epoxy if I feel the need.

Surely when y'all talk about anchors and epoxy, you are talking about only epoxying the ANCHOR and not the mount to the brick lol. Just want to clear that up so someone doenst get confused and start gluing mounts to the brick lol.

I'm waiting to see that someone used double-stick tape or Velcro.