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PCS (ss1l-s600) Scenemaster - This is an insert, correct?
This thread has 6 replies. Displaying all posts.
Post 1 made on Wednesday March 24, 2004 at 08:09
lawtyger
Long Time Member
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Hello,

I've been trying to decide between the PCS Scenemaster switch and the Switchlinc Plus (2386). I downloaded the instruction guides for each product to compare them and the picture on the front of both guides threw me off a bit.

Both these switches ARE/CAN BE used as "inserts" into a already installed Decora double wall plate correct? For two out of four switches this isn't a big deal as it is a single switch wall plate. However, the other two each will go into a double wall plate which already contains a regular (non-dimming, non X-10) decora switch). Again, the picture threw me off a bit so I apologize if this is a stupid question (but better safe then sorry).

Thanks.
Post 2 made on Wednesday March 24, 2004 at 09:35
Deane Johnson
Founding Member
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August 2001
263
I have a number of PCS SceneMaster switches all fitting with the standard Home Depot type Decora wall plates. I have one triple switch box with two SceneMasters and one Home Depot non-dimming switch. I think you are safe with any of these switches.

You'll be a happier camper if you go with the PCS switches and program them with your computer. All of these switches are a pain in the neck to program without a computer.
OP | Post 3 made on Wednesday March 24, 2004 at 11:40
lawtyger
Long Time Member
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March 2004
63
You'll be a happier camper if you go with the
PCS switches and program them with your computer.
All of these switches are a pain in the neck
to program without a computer.

Thanks Dean. I think I will be going with the PCS switches. What exactly do I need to program the PCS switches via a computer? Is it the CM11A OR the PHCO2?

Homeautomationnet.com on the page discussing the PHC02 describes the PHCO2 as a "Plug-in controllers for convenient manual operation from desks, coffee tables, bedside, etc. Each has the capacity for full intensity control and can send out "All Lights ON" or "All Units OFF" signals." The discription doesn't mention didn't mention programming.

However, homeautomationnet.com's "scene lighting starter kit" discription has next to the parenthesis that the PHC02 Controller is "(used to program PCS)." Thus, I guess I don't need a CM11A???

Just when I thought I figured out what switches I wanted, and what an IR543 does. . . now I've got some more codes letters (CM11A and PHC02) to figure out :)
Post 4 made on Wednesday March 24, 2004 at 14:30
Deane Johnson
Founding Member
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263
You need the CM11A to connect your computer to the powerline.

The PHC02 looks exactly like what we call a "maxi-controller". If you were manually programming the switch, that is what you would use.

The problem with manually programming the switch is that there are five levels within the switch that have to be delt with. You have to send a series of commands with the PCH02 for each thing you want to do. Not only is it hard to find your way around, if you mess up, you get to start over.

Before I had the computer interface, the only way I was able to get my first switch going was with step-by-step instructions from another poster on this forum who was kind enough to spell it out for me.

With the computer interface the only thing you have to do at the switch is get it to the level that allows the computer to take it off default and set it for "remote enable". Once that single command is sent, everything else is done on the computer screen.

If you're setting up scenes, you can run the sliders up and down and see the changes in the light levels in your scene before you send the programming instructions to the switch.

It's not the most awesome software in the world, but it gets the job done with about 10% as much hassle as with programming the switch manually.
OP | Post 5 made on Wednesday March 24, 2004 at 15:30
lawtyger
Long Time Member
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March 2004
63
Deane. Earlier, I went ahead and placed my order for 3 PCS Scenemaster switches, one PCS companion, on IR543, and one maxi controller. Thus, I'm on my way!

After seeing your post, I hope I do not regret not getting the CM11A :) I'm assuming the maxi controller will at least make programming easier than if I didn't have it (even though it sounds like using the CM11A is the next step up).
Post 6 made on Wednesday March 24, 2004 at 16:32
Deane Johnson
Founding Member
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Posts:
August 2001
263
My guess is that you'll add the CM11A before your finished.

The "Maxi-controller" is necessary if you're going to program any LampLinc lamp modules, so all is not lost. I saw a post some time ago where someone had programmed them with a computer using some home automation software, but I don't recall anything about it.
Post 7 made on Thursday March 25, 2004 at 20:43
RWI
Founding Member
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December 2001
592
I have programmed all my smarthome products by computer. I run a Mac using Indigo, I do believe that smarthome has pc software for programming there products as well.


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