Has anyone any simple way of programming different lighting scenes for X10, I am using a Pronto and IR reciever.

Graham Yeates

The simple way (read not cheapest) is to use scene capable switches/modules. homeautomationnet.com has a scene lighting starter kit.

[Link: homeautomationnet.com]

If you lamps are not controlled by wall switch, you can mount the switch in an electric box, add a plug and recepticle.



This message was edited by iresq1 on 08/27/03 12:01.

If you have HomeSeer or HAL, I think that you can also send a powerline command and use them to create scenes. For example, if the dimmers you wanted in the scene were codes A2, A3, and A4, program HomeSeer or HAL to respond to code S1 and send out a command to dim A2 to 50%, A3 to 50%, and A4 to 20%.

CJ

There are three ways to create scenes.

1. Use macros on the Pronto to build the scenes
2. Use a programable controller (Ocelot, HAL, etc.) to build the scenes
3. Use scene-capable switches to build the scenes.

Option three will produce the fastest, most professional looking scenes.

Switchlinc has scene-capable lamp modules called Lamplinc. [Link: homeautomationnet.com]

You'll need to either use scene capable switches or lamp modules (such as smarthome Switchlincs or Lamplincs) or a home computer based controller (Houselinc). I'd opt for the latter if you can spend $180. It offers not only scenes, but input events (automatic dimming of a room for instance), and timed events (controls your sprinklers, turns your lights on or off at specified times, turns off the wife's closet light after 15 minutes since she always leaves it on, etc.). Then, you program a specific address that you use for that event, and the Houselinc sends out the macro to the switches. Then the Pronto just has to send out that single X10 address and the Houselinc does the rest.

You can't use the pc software for scene style lighting with traditional x-10 modules though. With traditional modules, you'll have to go to a full on state, and then dim down, AFAIK.

Bummer - everyone tells us to get scene capable switches. But, it seems an IR "bridge", some switches and the right timing on my pronto should do it.

Doesn't anyone have some examples of scene creating macros (specifically the timing) for a pronto?!

Stanton,

There is nothing magic about a "scene" creating macro. You send "house code" "unit code" then "dim dim dim" a number of times. This works to create a sort of scene. The big difference is the cheap X10 switches have 16 dim steps from on to off, the real scene switchs have up to 200. SO when you try to create a fake scene, you get a ratcheting affect and not a smooth transition. Most of the cheap X10 switches also always go to full bright when you turn them on. Scene switches know their curent brightness level, and go from the intensity of where they are, to where you want them to be, and do it with a ramp rate that you set, they don’t need to go to full bright first. If you buy a switch between a cheap X10 and a scene switch, like the Switchlinc 2384 and use a controller that can send preset dim commands you can send direct commands to go to a specified light level but can not control ramp rate. We use these a lot with Homeseer and HAI as they can send these required commands.

Bill
www.homeautomationnet.com

I have 5 lights in my living room with one 543 controller. All the lights are on cheap x10 dimmer modules. I started out by programming a macro to:

turn on Light1, dim, dim, dim, dim, dim
turn on light 2, dim, dim, dim, dim, dim
turn on light 3, dim, dim, dim, dim, dim

You are probably aware by now that you can "arm" a set of lights then turn off, turn on or dim the whole group. Thus the macro above becomes:

arm, 1, 2, 3, turn on, dim dim dim, dim, dim

18 steps becomes 10 and the "arm" command pays off even more if there are a lot more "dim" commands. On my remote the default "arm" key is the down arrow. The 543 contoller does the same "arm" command if you hit multiple #'s before hitting the "on" or other key.

With my 5 lights I have 4 scenes:

1) Lights 2 and 3 full on (read the paper)
2) Lights 2,3 and 4 full on (really read the paper)
3) All lights on dim (mood light)
4) Lights 2 and 3 on dim (movie time!)
5) All lights off (handy!)

All lights off is on the MX-500 upper left system off button and on a shifted macro key on the 15-1994.

All of the 1st 4 macros first turn off all the lights in case any were on so that you can go from macro to macro and get the same results. My "mute" button is all lights off and Channel Up is "on". The macro programming becomes:

1) Light Device Button, mute, arm, 2,3, on
2) Light Device Button, mute, arm, 2,3,4, on
3) Light Device Button, mute, arm, 1,2,3,4,5, dim, dim
dim, dim, dim, dim, dim
4) Light Device Button, mute, arm, 2,3, dim, dim, dim ,dim, dim, dim

Note that issuing the first "dim" command after "arming" the lights has the same effect as issuing and "on" command. After the macro finishes, the remote is still on the LIght Device, so you can merely hit the VOL +/- to fine tune the level of the "armed" lights.

Greg

My vote is still with the HomeSeer software AND the 2-way switches. I personally like the Switchlinc switches.

Martin
www.AutomatedOutlet.com