Currently using the CP290 from ActiveHome kit purchased five years ago. How is the CM11A different/better? Is it worth the cost of a new ActiveHome kit (currently #39.95) to upgrade?

cm11a. has macros, as well as being a 2 way device where you can start the macros from an x10 on/off signal. cm11a will follow dusk to dawn settings so you're not locked in to a timer setting. this eats up the cm11a memory real fast, and the cm11a doesn't have much memory. cm11a will map other codes to see if neighbors have x10 in use. cm11a has had reports of stability problems and clock problems. I haven't seen this yet but I just got one to try a couple of months ago. I downloaded that smart10 software for the cpu290 but they wanted 30 bucks to authorize it. pfffft/not worth it. I would like to get some easy windows software for the 290, I use it for backup. here's a link to an article comparing the cm11a to the early version of the ocelot. btw, the cm11a is probably a good deal at 39 bucks (if you can use the freebies) even if you just use it for macros. macros don't eat up much memory. [Link: eon3.com]

Thanks, jrx10. Your response and the link were helpful. I posted my original questions in a rush, as the x10.com special I was interested in ended the following day [yesterday :-)]. Unfortunately, I didn't receive any replies before then; but I went ahead and ordered the decora wall switches (at half price) and the ActiveHome kit at $10 off.

Although I've been *using* X10 for over twenty years [do the BSR/Introl names ring any bells :-)?], I haven't been shopping/adding to the system since 98/99. It's disappointing to see that the x10 scene is pretty much the same as it was then; there doesn't seem to have been very much progress. Everything I read about the CM11a, much of it from that time period, talks about the problems it has with hanging and so forth. Is there any hope that the ones currently being shipped have rectified some of these problems? [Same question for the transceiver hangs, motion sensor timeouts, etc.]

Another question I haven't been able to find an answer too is: just how many macros can the CM11a store for stand-alone operation? I think macros will be my primary use for the CM11a, in an attempt to increase the WAF.

The article you pointed to was also helpful in its review of the Ocelot. I've been thinking about either an Ocelot or a HouseLinc; while both are much more expensive than a CM11a, they are still much cheaper than many of the other controllers out there. Having read about the Ocelot's "ladder logic", I think I'll avoid that one. I would like something that can be programmed either in a C-like language, or one that can actually be programmed at it's most basic level (Z80 assembly language, in the case of the Ocelot). But does anyone have any comments on either of these two controllers, or any alternatives? Thanks.

I also played with and used BSR X10 technology in the mid 80's. There has been alot of progress, IMO. The Keypadlincs and PCS switches, and macro capabilities, all in switches that are under $100, is remarkable. I have a rather comprehensive setup, controlling more than 15 devices, for less than $1,000 including a coupler/repeater. The result is thousands less than direct-wired low-voltage relay switches, or RadioA (which can run $400 per switch), with fairly flawless results. That is technology!

I also agree there has been a lot of progress in x10. about 8-10 months ago I installed a phase coupler/amplifier. reduced my problems virtually down to zero. (plug the sucker into the dryer plug, how easy is that) I still use a lot of the ibm x10 push button wall switches that I got on clearance for 29 cents at office max. I changed a regular wall switch out, put in a recessed clock plug, and mounted a mini-console directly where the switch was, works great, and looks pretty good. no reason x-10 shouldn't come out with a vertical mini-console for a single gang box for about 15 dollars. the x10 motion detectors are great, I have 5 and only one's has gone bad (knock on wood) in about 5 years. just bought 4 more on a buy 1 get 1 for a dollar. 26 bucks each you can't beat it. I would recommend that if you install hard wired x10 motion detectors, you install a manual on/off wall switch ahead of them. every 6 months or so they lock-up and I just cut the power off for a couple of minutes and they're good to go. I just purchased 10 eagle eyes (which was probably stupid). I really don't trust x10 rf, but they were pretty cheap on ebay, and look fun to play with.( figures just got an email form x10, eagle eyes buy 1 get 2 free, that's about what I paid on ebay, but with buy 3, you would get 9 with free shipping--shipping was too much on ebay) with companies like merrick, psc switches, leviton, addicon with the ocelot, homeseer if you want to run a pc on all the time. you can do quite a lot with x10 and with a little troubleshooting get it stable. however, if you run x10 and if you don't have some kind of phase coupler, get one now.-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------to answer your macro/memory question. I've got 9 macros plugged in. 1 with 1 (all units off), 4 with 3 macros, 2 with 6 macros and 2 with 2 macros, and the statistics area of the cm11a says it's eating up 10% of the memory. 3% macros/7% data (whatever that means) guessing about 40-50% are associated with dimming which eats up more memory.

This message was edited by jrx10 on 07/19/03 13:48.

Hi Bruce. Yes, I agree there has been progress since the protocol was designed. What I was saying is that, in my opinion, there hasn't been much since 98/99. It seems that, from what I've been reading, products which were current then, are still current now and still have the same design flaws built in :-(.

jrx10: thanks for the macro count information. It sounds like there should be plenty for my [current] needs :-).

The plug in phase couplers although they help are not the greatest idea, especially if you have a dryer plugged into the outlet also. First off the 240 outlet is usually some distance from the main where you want to do the coupling and then if you have a dryer that is running all your signals are going through the heating element and dryer motor. Don’t get me wrong, they are better than nothing, but not anywhere as near as good as a properly installed coupler repeater at the main panel. Also if you ever do testing on performance what you will find, is if you had .7 volts on one phase and .1 volts on the second phase, after you install the coupler you will end up with something like .5 volts on the first phase and .3 on the second. A coupler repeater looks up a signal it sees on either phase and sends it back out on both at 4 to 5 volts or so.

Bill
www.homeautomationnet.com

Hi Bill. I've be considering a plug-in phase coupler for years, but never actually seen one for sale until this week. I was almost ready to order it, but your post has given me pause :-). I'm sure you are correct about the technical aspects.

My situtation is this: my home is small--about 1160 sq. ft. on the main level, and about the same in the finished basement. So far, my RF transmitters seem to reach my centrally-located transceiver from anywhere in the house, and the transceiver seems able to operate all receivers. As for wired controllers, there seems to be only a few location combinations which cannot be reached, and some brief, highly unscientific :-) testing showed that those location combinations *could* be reached when the dryer was running. [The exception being that the CP290 seems to work poorly when plugged in near the computer, so it really needs to be moved to another room, once programmed. I assume the same will be true of the CM11a.]

So, I think a coupler at the dryer would suffice. But, even at the sale price of $30, that will cost me about $72 CDN when all is said and done. It's likely been apparent from my other posts that money is a concern. It would certainly be *much* cheaper to simply wire in a capacitor inside the dryer outlet box. I don't know what's inside the plug-in coupler, but I suspect that a simple capacitor would serve my needs. My main concern with this is that I doubt that it would be legal--or would it? But on the same note, is it even legal for a non-electrician to wire in wall-switches?

In the US it is legal in most areas to wire in a wall switch. It is not legal anywhere I know of for a consumer to do any wiring in the main panel. I know a lot of people that do it anyway and it's not hard, just not legal. Wiring a capacitor in works, but there is more to a coupler that you are buying other than just a capacitor, although that is the main component. I have a big problem with wisdom in going to a electronics store and getting a capacitor. If you should happen to have a house fire and it also happens to be electrically generated, you can bet that the insurance company is going to try to use the capacitor as a reason not to pay out on your claim. May be the worst $30 you ever saved.

Bill
www.homeautomationnet.com

Bill, right! That's exactly my concern: in case of fire, I don't want to be without coverage. If it's legal for a non-electrician to wire in a wall switch, then I would hope (I don't know) that, even in the case of an electrical fire, the insurance company would have no reason disallow your claim. Now how about wiring in in-line modules? For that matter, how about ceiling fans that you wire in yourself? And, about the capacitor, I was wondering whether it would be legal to wire it in the dryer outlet box, not at the breaker box, which I know would not be acceptable. I know we're not lawyers here; I'm not asking anyone for legal advice :-), I'm more wondering where one could actually go to find the information. It would, of course, vary from one location to another, but if anyone had any pointers, they would be very helpful :-).

The building codes are usually at the library, most are based on national electrical code guidelines. I am fairly sure in-line modules are a licensed electrician item also.

On the cap, I think any time you take a capacitor and wire it in anywhere you are asking for trouble, as it was not designed for the purpose of what you are doing. At least with a device produced for the purpose of coupling you have something to fall back in at least there were instructions on installation and you followed them. I would think an insurance company would have a field day with you in court, when you said you went down to the local radio shack bought a capacitor and wired on you main panel. I just don't think you would get much sympathy, even if it wasn’t the direct cause.

Bill
www.homeautomationnet.com

That's helpful, Bill. Thanks. I'm giving serious consideration to ordering the one-and-only plug-in coupler I've seen :-).