I had a Lamp Linc module that refused to respond when the t.v. was on. The plug for my A/V equipment was on the same phase but a different circuit than my lamp module. At this point I had a Leviton 5A filter blocking my AV equipment. I tried changing the phase of the lamp linc plug, and this time it didn't respond at all. So now I knew I could use a phase coupler, but it likely wouldn't solve the problem. Bought a phase coupler/repeater, installed it on a dedicated 2 pole bkr, and still same problem. Called Smarthome customer service, and they basically threw their hands up (the kid offered something vague about possible noise on the neutral). Wanna know what solved it? I re-fed the lamp plug from the same circuit the A/V stuff was on (which also happens to be the circuit my transmitter is on). Can you think of any reason for this? For all of X-10's filters, and amplifiers, couplers, bells and whistles, good old fashioned electrical work saved the day.

I can think of the reason (a lack of electical activity in the cerebellum) and suspect that anyone who reads your report will find it amusing.

Did you try your transmitter (what transmitter) on a different circuit than the A/V equip? Are you using a surge suppressor with the A/V gear? And last what coupler repeater are you using. My guess is your signal is so weak or corrupted that it isn’t getting to the coupler repeater (or it's a Leviton HC).

Bill
www.homeautomationnet.com

The transmitter is an IR543. I have a surge suppressor (with filtering) plugged into the Leviton filter. My AV stuff is plugged into the surge supp. The transmitter is plugged into the top half of the (duplex) receptacle. I located it next to my other IR controlled equipment out of convenience. I have one other single pole dimmer switch for sconces which had worked fine (t.v. on or off) with only the help of the Leviton filter. I didn't try the transmitter on a different circuit, but I did try the lamp module on different circuits and it did work. However this was after I put on the coupler/repeater, and yes, it is a Leviton HC. Wrong repeater?

Which means...

A. The TV has a switching power supply that floods the powerline with 120KHz.
B. The TV has a capacitor across the mains to prevent flooding the powerline with RF.

The most popular choice is A but the probability is near zero. The FCC prohibits devices from putting RF on the powerline in the AM radio frequency range so most products are tested for this. While the 120KHz used by X-10 is below the AM range, the 5th and higher harmonics are in this range. A cap across the mains solves the problem but this presents a problem for X-10 signals. The capacitor presents a low impedance path to ground for the 120KHz X-10 signal.

B is the correct answer in 99.99% of the cases.

In either case, a phase coupler will have absolutely no effect on the problem.


I cannot make heads or tails of this. Was the lamp module upstream or downstream of the Leviton filter? Where was the filter in relation to the TV?


This is an excellent way to test any smoke detectors in the house. It's also a good way to electrocute innocent bystanders. Like X-10 modules, the LampLinc uses the hot lead as electronic ground. Reversing the phase internally borders on criminal insanity.


No kidding.


Which probably means the filter is now between the X-10 transmitter and TV. Duh!

When I encounter someone this dumb, I'm torn between encouraging them to continue doing what they're doing in hopes they will electrocute themselves before they procreate and further contaminate the gene pool or referring them to this article in the hope that it may save the lives of innocent bystanders.

A few points for my friend Dave. You need to keep in mind that many people on this forum are consumers (of which I count myself), not designers, or engineers. You seem to enjoy flaunting your knowledge of the subject and using it as a basis to insult people. I only condescend to acknowledge you at all because I feel bad for any end-user who reads these posts and as a result may be afraid to ask a any questions for fear of the kind of these attacks you feel are necessary. As far as the acutal subject goes, first and foremost in America we refer to a typical residential service as "single phase" consisting of two ungrounded PHASE conductors and a grounded neutral conductor which is intentionally made common to both a grounding electrode, and the metal water piping system at the main panel. So a single pole breaker on this system will either be plugged into phase A or phase B. There is a potential of 120V to ground on each PHASE. Are you getting this? When you move a branch circuit from PHASE A to PHASE B, you are not doing anything inherently dangerous you are only changing the unbalanced current returned on the neutral. In my case, it seemed to indicate that I needed a phase coupler, but as I said I knew it wouldn't solve the problem. You are definitely misunderstanding other aspects of this problem (which was corrected before I started this thread), but I really don't want any input, help, links, or clever analysis from you- never did. I had noticed that Larry Fine seemed to respond to house wiring questions/comments and that is to whom this post was intended. Your sarcastic, venomous (unprovoked) responses speak for themselves and I would hope that they serve as evidence that you shouldn't be allowed to post on this site, until you can maintain professionalism and decorum.

I am misunderstanding nothing. You are less than clueless when it comes to understanding electricity.

Odds are you will eventually electrocute yourself. I only hope you don't also kill others.

wow dave..pretty angry aren't you?

roller, see this thread:
[Link: remotecentral.com]
for a little insite to daves electronics knowlege...it's pathetic.

". You are less than clueless when it comes to understanding electricity. "

LOL...Dave, please....pot, kettle, black.

I log on to this forum for help with my system; Instead get "comedy" and people (Dave) trying to prove how smart he is.

Frankly, most people write and seek help with their system, and want it to work without worrying about the minutia of exactly how it works. In that regard, I do not see how Dave's comments in any way were meant to help the original poster's problem.

Roller's problem is similar to may others', including mine. I have a CR230 repeater/phase coupler, and still have circuits that are a "black hole" when it comes to X10 signals. I also have wondered if it would help to change the connection point to the coupler/repeater to another breaker. Instead of learning if that is an attempt worth trying, we instead are chided as to how we can electrocute ourselves, or how the TV is the culprit.

In my humble opinion, Dave, if you want to prove how smart you are, do it somewhere else.

Then you should read the URL I referenced. Odds are you have appliances that attenuate the X-10 signal. Buy an ELK X-10 signal strength meter (Bill E has them for about $50) and measure signal strengths to locate them. If you don't like my explanation, Phil Kingery wrote four articles which explain the same thing (although he didn't cover signal attenuators) in many more words. See...

[Link: hometoys.com]
[Link: hometoys.com]
[Link: hometoys.com]
[Link: hometoys.com]

This was not a case of poor coupling but was: TV on = LampLinc not working; TV off = LampLinc working. Had "roller" asked what he should do, he would have gotten several responses telling him to plug the TV into a filter.


That's not at all what "roller" said he did. He said he reversed the phase at the LampLinc plug. That is both stupid and dangerous. If, as he now claims, he merely moved that circuit to a different side of the panel, it's merely stupid since this problem was not caused by poor phase coupling.

BTW, the TV is the culprit.

UUUUGGGGH!! Dave reading your posts is like looking at a car accident. You are quite obviously the epicenter of the collective disgust of everyone who encounters you. I tried to diplomatically explain to you why we in the civilized world do not hurl undeserved, unprovoked insults in order to prove to ourselves how smart we are. What is ironic in your case, is that you continue to reaffirm your ignorance with each post. You need to read carefully what has been posted. I actually feel sorry for you, because what you have posted here is an indelible testament to your ignorance. You can't take it back. But you can't help yourself, you will continue to beat yourself up and post again, like a gambler who wants to get even with the house. Your intentions are disingenuous. You are not here to help people, only to show everyone how smart you are. You are making an otherwise helpful, commendable site a very unpleasant place to visit. By virtue of this post I am making a passive appeal to the adminstrator of this website to take notice of the stigma that you have branded upon this forum and summarily BAN DAVE HOUSTON from posting ever again. At this point I am willing to let this drop, as you are not worth my effort. If I see one more insult posted, I will actively petition for your removal. Judging from the e-mails I have received and posts I've read, I do not think it presumptuous to expect that others will follow suit. Do yourself a favor and think carefully about this one. Let it go.

In defense to Dave Houston (which contradicts what I said above), I have seen other posts and Forums that rave about some of his published articles.

I agree that he took "pot-shots" where none were seemingly justified. I also agree that the technical aspects of why things work or don't work do not interest me as much as learing what I should try to fix the problem. They may interest others, however.

Dave's last post to me was somewhat informative and I will try his suggestions. I do not think his actions merit a ban from the website.

More Comedy from Dave!

(Read from this Post, all the way to the end).

Even though his name is on this, Larry wanted nothing to do with this thread.