I would like to control my track lighting in my home, already on a dimmer switch via macro with my pronto 2000. ie...i hit the dvd buttom, the lights go down, etc...

Could someone please explain all equipment needed to accomplish this(with links if possible) in a very basic way. What the heck are scenes, 543 etc...

thanks
brian

Here's a start for you...

Quick overview of X10: [Link: homeautomationnet.com]

IR control of X10 devices: [Link: members.home.net]

I tried to get you a link to some information on scenes but the http://www.pcslighting.com site seems to be down at the moment. Take a look there if it's back up when you get this.

That should be enough to give you an idea of what questions you need to ask. :)

Ok..basics are covered. I get the basic idea behind the technology.

I would like to start by converting one wall switch, which controls a set of track lighting with a remote control dimmer switch.

I use a phillips pronto remote. What basic dimmer switch should I use to change my wall switch?

brian

Brian,

I always recommend the PCS SmartSwitch for it's quality, warranty and capability, particularly it's scene function as well as it's ability to work reliably in high-noise environments. This isn't a "basic" switch, though, priced at $74.95 at [Link: homeautomationnet.com] but the capabilities and quality are well worth the price.

Brian,

I would have to agree with Larry, the PCS Smartswitch is a great switch. I have a Pronto that I use to dim the lights in my den (theater room) to off and dim my floods in the kitchen to about 30% power.

With the Smartswitch Scene capability, I have a macro on my Pronto that does the above dimming but it only sends one X-10 address so I don't have to keep holding the Pronto at the 543 while it enters multiple X10 addresses and commands.

Plus with the PCS Smartswitch, you can turn the lights on to a specific brightness without having to go to full brightness than down to the desired dim level like some of the cheap switches.

My first X-10 compatible switch was a Leviton model but it didn't have a true rocker switch and didn't have scene capabilities and since then I have removed it (my wife couldn't stand it!) and have replaced it and 2 other conventional switches with PCS switches.

As Larry pointed out, they're not cheap but you know the saying, "you get what you pay for".

-Tom A.

Thanks for the info.

My home is an older home(ie..im not sure what the wiring is like) Is there any specific thing I should check out, review about my wiring before trying x-10 and these type of switches?

thanks again
brian

Brain,

You will need access to a nuetral in each switch location.

The dimmer switches I get (in the UK from let's Automate) work without a neutral!

They 'get to it' through the load. (So they won't work with some PSUs on low voltage lighting.)

They cost around £25.

Ok..so my switches have a neutral. There are 3 rooms that need lights to be turned off. Do i need 1 SS1L/S-600, and 2 pcssr?


Also what 543 model will i need the 543 ir or the 543ah? Whats the diff?

brian

Brian,

1. You'd need one SS1L/S per circuit. The SSR is used only in 3-way or 4-way setups where more than one switch controls a single light.

2. That depends on what you want to do. I posted the detail page on the IR543 page last night ( [Link: members.home.net] ) which explains it's limitations. The IR543AH removes the one house code limitation but is otherwise identical.

Read my new IR543 page and let me know if it leaves any questions unanswered. The IR543AH page is probably a few days away. I'm waiting for a copy of the IR543AH's users manual so that I can ensure the information I post is accurate.

Jim:

In Australia you have 220-240 volt power similar to Britain. Your wiring system doesn't have a neutral, which is used in North America with its 120/240 volt system. The neutral enables the power system to have the equivalent of a transformer center tap, giving 120 volts. In dimmers that use it, it provides full voltage to run the dimmers circuitry. The big problem is many switches use a switching leg type curcuit that doesn't have a neutral available in the switch box. This I assume is a similar problem you have in the 240 volt circuits, there is no way to provide full voltage to run the dimmer, so they use what "leaks" through the light bulbs. This is not ideal because you can never turn off the circuit for safety reasons.