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3 way works manually, but not remotely.
This thread has 9 replies. Displaying all posts.
Post 1 made on Sunday May 13, 2001 at 14:01
Frank
Historic Forum Post
I installed a couple of switches for a hall light. One master and a slave. Both switches work exactly as they should when I press them. Dim , On, Off no problem.

If I try and contol them via X-10 commands through the key pad I don't get anything. I've checked the unit and house code and it's set up correctly. The key pad will control the other lights that I've installed.

This is the 4th X-10 switch I've installed (1st 3way)and all the others work fine.

Any ideas.

Frank
OP | Post 2 made on Sunday May 13, 2001 at 23:34
Bill E
Historic Forum Post
Are these switches on the same phase as the KeyPad? Using a separate transmitter (like a maxi controller) on the same house code and try an all lights off to see if it responds. Also try to communicate with it using a transmitter plugged into an outlet on the same circuit. It seams 90% of the time non-functioning switches are either noise or phase problems but switches also do go bad.

Bill
www.homeautomationnet.com
OP | Post 3 made on Monday May 14, 2001 at 01:20
Frank
Historic Forum Post
I'm not sure what you mean Bill. Same Phase as the key pad? The problem switch is House code A - 3
I tried the switch with the Radio Shack remote and a Pronto as well as directly with the IR543 pad.

I'll try moving the controller to the same circuit. I never checked to see which plugs went dead when I installed the switch.

I'll do that tonight.

Thanks
Frank
OP | Post 4 made on Monday May 14, 2001 at 14:09
Frank
Historic Forum Post
Bill gets an extra cookie. I switched the mini controller to the same phase/circuit and it worked.

Thanks Bill

Now what? Are we talking noice on the line?
OP | Post 5 made on Monday May 14, 2001 at 23:55
Bill E
Historic Forum Post
Frank,

Hope it's not one of those cookies that keeps these X10 advertisements popping up on my browser. As much as I like their products their advertising people need to be eliminated.

With the Keypad back at the original location turn on your oven and dryer or any other 220Volt appliance. If it works, then you need a phase coupler. Everyone should have on that is expecting their X10 to be reliable.

Bill
www.homeautomationnet.com

OP | Post 6 made on Tuesday May 15, 2001 at 11:53
Frank
Historic Forum Post
Actually I was thinking about tall house ones with extra choclate chips. Mmmmmm Coooookies.

Well Bill the test worked. Stove on, lights worked.

I guess I need a coupler. Like you said though it'll be better all around if I have one.

Thanks for you help Bill.

Frank
OP | Post 7 made on Friday May 18, 2001 at 02:09
Larry in TN
Historic Forum Post
It's *TOLL* house cookies. Doesn't matter how many stories the house might have... :)
OP | Post 8 made on Thursday May 24, 2001 at 01:31
Frank
Historic Forum Post
X10 guru by day. Comic by night.
Larry you do it all :-)
OP | Post 9 made on Monday May 28, 2001 at 13:43
Frank
Historic Forum Post
A new twist? I had one of those mini controllers and decided to plug into the same wall socket as my lamp.

I can control all my lights from this location without the stove on ????

I thought that Bills experiment proved the need for a coupler. It had me convinced.

What does this mean?

Frank
OP | Post 10 made on Monday May 28, 2001 at 17:11
Larry in TN
Historic Forum Post
I'm not sure why you think it changes Bill's diagnoses. Some signal passes between phases but, in many circumstances, it's not enough. A coupler ensures that you have a good path between phases.


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