Here's my problem:
There's a room in my basement that has a lightswitch in a bad spot. When you open the door the switch gets hidden behind the door. What I want to do is X10 the switch and then have a wireless stick-on light switch on the other side of the door opening so that when you walk in you just hit the switch. Seems simple, but I can't find a single switch, wireless stick on controller! I've found this at Radioshack.com:

[Link: radioshack.com]

The one on the left is exactly what I'm looking for, but this isn't X10 compatible. The other option is this:

[Link: smarthome.com]

But I don't want 4 switches! I just want one so that it's easy to hit in the dark. The SlimLines won't work either for this application. Anyway, does anyone know if such a thing exists? The Radio Shack switch is exactly the look and functionality that I want but I want it X10. Thanks for your help!

you could always get a X10 wall switch and a motion sensor.

I don't want a motion sensor. It's going to be a home theater room and i don't want the lights turning on everytime someone walks in.

I don't know of any one-button RF switches. I couple of other options...

1. Go with the four-button RF switch and use the other three buttons for other lights and/or scenes.

2. Move the switch to the other wall.

3. Install an in-wall keypad transmitter on the other wall.

Not what you wanted, I know...

Use the 4 button switch (slimline) and set all 4 of the buttons to the light switch on the other side of the door. Hit any button when you walk in and you've got light. If this doesn't work for you, then you should just move the switch to the other side of the door.

Hope this helps,
Steven (TN)

Steve,

Are those four buttons indapendantly programmable? I figured you set the address for the first one then the other three were sequential.

Steve: You're right. You program one and the rest are set sequentially. Also, you can't even pick the channel you want! You have to pick from few, none of which fit into my current layout.

Anyway, I've decided to make my own. I've ripped apart a SlimLine wall switch. I've soldered three wires to it (common, on and off). I've tested the three wires and they work. Now I'm going to rip apart a regular light switch so when it's flipped up it momentarily touches the 'On' and 'Common' together and when it's flipped off it touches the 'Off' and 'Common'. The mechanics of it will be a little tricky but I think it can be done. I'll let you know how it comes out.

Larry and Andy,
Sorry, I didn't realize the slimline was set up as you described. I guess I should know the device before I recommend it. I'll be more careful in the future. I'm glad you found a solution Andy.

Steven (TN)

Another possible solution would be to have the door hinged on the other side?

Andy,

I have done what you're describing, in the past. I used one of the keychain remotes. I wired the "on" and "off" push buttons to a standard SPDT wall switch, through 10 megohm resistors in parallel with a small capacitor. You need the RC combination, to prevent a continuous drain on the battery. This scheme was not particularly successful. If you make the capacitor too small, then there will only be one RF transmission, where normally you get 3 or 4 (for as long as you hold the button). Only getting one RF burst transmission SEVERELY degraded reliability. Making the capacitor larger, caused an entirely different problem, although it did result in 4-5 RF transmissions per switch activation. The problem it caused was that it imposed a limit on how fast a user could "double toggle" the switch. So, if you did a quick on-off-on with the switch, there was no telling what state the light would end up in. To top off all those problems, I got lots of complaints about delays between activating the switch and the light actually responding. I hope you fare better.

John Galvin

Well, I've built my own solution. I ripped apart an old dimmable light switch. it's the kind that looks like a regular light switch but can be positioned anywhere between the 'On' and 'Off' points to dim. The back of the switch has a long arm that moved a slider on a variable resistor when you would flip the light on or off. I completely removed all of its innards and I placed two mico switches (like these: [Link: radioshack.com] )in the switch. On at the top and one at the bottom. I placed them in such a way that when the switch is moved all the way in either position it hits one of the microswitches. I also used a rubberband to keep the switch in the center when not in use and also gives the switch a little resistance so it feels more natural. It took a little work but now I'm very happy with my solution. If anyone wants pics, let me know.

Loran, That's what I call thinking outside the box?

It may not work but at least you didn't get wrapped up in the X-10 route.

Frank

Sorry Loran, didn't see your comment. I can't hinge the door on the other side. There's a stone harth on that side is in the way.