I am not clear on how to hook up the power sensing leads. I have no DC outputs to use. Can I attach a 110 plug and stick it into a switched outlet?
For units that don't have that, what are the various choices and where do I get them.
What are peoples experiences and recommends on this subject?
Thanks for any help.
rick

If you can, use the video sensors. They are much easier to set up. If not, you need the following:
- You can get an electronics technician to soldier the leads into the device. He has to find out where there is current passing through when the unit is on (min. 5 volts DC) and no current when it is off.

Rick, Get a 120v to 12DC transformer, plug it in to the switched outlet on your receiver, hook the other to the power sensor. It works great. In your programming make sure you write the code to check the power input several times that way if an IR code isn't picked up by the receiver it'll send the on command again.
Robert

Thanks guys,
I am looking for a television sensor. It has no video out, only audio. Its an oldie. I read about the Smartlink stuff but I hate getting more "stuff" (BOB)
to cram in the space I have already full of wires etc Isn't there a probe that works off the power of the VPS from RTI? They should have pat answers and items available instead of making us flounder around looking for these solutions. This is not a complete package! Does anyone know what input signals are needed for the VPS to function?
Thanks,
rick

5 volts DC that is why you need the BOB (which is powered) to create that voltage.

It's actually 5 to 30 Volts

Bill
www.homeautomationnet.com

What current is running in the IRF 6? Won't there be some power from there going down the wires to the probe that then acts as a switch? I don't understand how this part of the system works. Can someone mercifuly explain?
Thanks guys,
rick

Hey Rick,

You actually have to purchase a sensing module for the RTI. It will plug into one of the IR ports on the RF receiver. Then, plug the devices IR emitter into the jack on the sensing module (not directly into the RF reciever). In the program it is up to you to tell your macros to only send the power command when needed. Good luck, remember, once you have done it once every time after that is easy.

Pat

Rick,

From what I have read, I would go with Roberts’ suggestion, it seams to be your most elegant solution. That is assuming you can’t get discrete on/off codes. If you can you may not need the sensors at all.

Bill
www.homeautomationnet.com

Just to let you all know, and thanks for still thinking on this, I have resolved my problems. I bought a wall wart to plug in to the switched outlet but guess what?
That particular one "leaked" current when the outlet was switched off. WONDERFUL! So, I talked to etronixs and they VERY KINDLY swapped my voltage sensor for a video sensor. Voila! and Thank You!
Now I have everything up and running pretty well, just tweaking here and there.
rick