Dose anyone know of any websights for specific ways of reinforcing walls to support a 50" Plasma. No manufactures of the brackets wants to supply information and by liable.

Don't know of any websites.

Even load & torque specs must give way to common sense. Zip-Its are rated for 50lbs each, so 2 of them should hold a 50", no? Of course not.

My method of choice is to make sure the mount supports ME before I hang a plasma on it. If it'll take my 210 pounds, it'll certainly take a 50".

I've only found it necessary to reinforce a wall once, to support a 160lb Electro-Kinetics double-arm cantilever mount. The plasma itself was incidental.

This message was edited by deb1919 on 03/31/04 07:34.

Thanks for the respond. But down in Florida we have metal studs no wood usually. Any addtional ideas from someone.

Any way to go all the way through the wall and do a backer on the otherside?

2528, When doing this, I have mounted plywood a little larger than bracket to metal studs..using toggle bolts going thru the sheetrock and opening after passing thru front side of metal stud..these are usually large toggles..and at least 3 per stud...You will usally only get 2 studs..and then I add a few good screws just for GP..after this you will have a good surface to mount the bracket to..If this is new construction the boards can get put up between studs beforre sheetrock..If Florida allows..


THXRick

Are you joking...I Hope. Guys, we are talking about a 90-125lb display here. I've said this a hundred times, and I'll say it again....When you hang a plasma on a wall (Unless it is on a swing arm) all the weight of the display is primarily being pulled straight down. You don't need to re-enforce the wall. Everybody always goes WAY overboard with their mounts, including my old boss. To prove my point to hime I mounted a plasma bracket on an interior wall to metal studs using only four 1/2" toggle bolts. Then a coworker and myself hung off of it (total of about 375lbs) and it didn't budge. I wouldn't recommend anchoring it to straight drywall, but it would take a CRAPLOAD of weight pulling straight forward (not downward) to pull even just one 1/2" toggle out of a metal stud.

Understood McNasty, but unlike QQQ stated in the pro installers forum yesterday (April fools day) happy to sell repacements when they hit the floor, I cheat towards overengineering. I'd rather avoid the $10,000 hit and my clients would rather not deal with sweeping up the glass. I ALWAYS rebuild that section of wall with wood. I'm a pussy? Unwilling to take a risk? So be it.
TIFWIW

There's nothing wrong with taking extra precaution. I just don't like people thinking they need to go to that extent. When a person askes what is required, I tell them what they is needed. I have built up walls before as well, but sometimes you don't have that option, and I just don't want people to think it's unsafe and ditch a job over it.

Earthquakes = Liability

Years ago I had a TV wall bracket come off a wall in an earthquake, now I over engineer everything.

Presuming its drywall over steel or wood frame?

For wood-

If the factory holes do not line with the studs in the wall drill out the mounting plate to correspond with the stud placement, use at least six 2-1/2” long lag screws with washers, pre drill the studs with a small bit to prevent cracking the wood.

For Metal-

You can do as above but in place of lags use larger fine thread bolts, use a corresponding tap to pre thread the holes you have drilled into the metal studs, once again use at least 6 bolts with washers. This is actually an incredibly strong mounting method. Stronger than toggles.

But for those that want more beef!

Get your wall bracket lined up the way you want, draw a line around it, and then cut that section of drywall out. Get yourself a couple of 20” sections of wood 4”X 4”s drill through the side of the steel studs then screw lag screws with washers into the 4X4 sections you have inserted through the hole you have cut and lined up with the steel studs, screw the drywall back on, then mount your bracket with lag screws and washers to the 4X4’s inside the wall.

If I am working on a project where the walls are not finished (steel or Wood) I just frame in 2X6’s on edge where the plasma is going, to make things easier during the install.

OK,
Here's one for you.
Articulating mount (15" arm), 42" plasma, 1 wood stud in the center of the mount. Space on each side of the stud are heat runs. Oh, the wall sconces are already in place.

Any ideas??

Cut the drywall and replace with plywood screwed across three studs. Anchor the plasma bracket through the center into the middle stud. Drill through the plywood using the plasma bracket as a template for the remaining holes in the plywood. Take the plywood back off and insert T-Nuts in the backside. Reinstall the plywood and put just the bolts back into the holes. Give the surface a good couple of coats of mud. Sand like you would any other drywall project, repair, texture & paint as needed. Remove the bolts and then fasten the plasma bracket to your new mounting surface. Enjoy.

Thanks for all the info. I really appreciate all the expertise for you great guru's

25, this quoting stuff is really confusing, isn't it?

25's approach to quoting is an undocumented work-around. The trick is to get the second post in before someone else posts.