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Topic:
Snaking wires from the crawlspace
This thread has 19 replies. Displaying posts 16 through 20.
Post 16 made on Tuesday March 25, 2003 at 19:55
Larry Fine
Loyal Member
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August 2001
5,002
Tom, the directional tool, this one from LSD Inc, will pull the tip of the flex-bit back toward the inside of the wall. You just need to engage the shaft and insert the tool in the opening up to the "elbow", then apply upward torque.

Larry
www.fineelectricco.com
Post 17 made on Wednesday March 26, 2003 at 11:00
Ernie Bornn-Gilman
Yes, That Ernie!
Joined:
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December 2001
30,104
On 03/25/03 19:55, Larry Fine said...
You just need
to engage the shaft and insert the tool in the
opening up to the "elbow", then apply upward torque.

Am I the only one who cringes when I see or hear the phrase "you just need to" ? ?
A good answer is easier with a clear question giving the make and model of everything.
"The biggest problem in communication is the illusion that it has taken place." -- G. “Bernie” Shaw
OP | Post 18 made on Wednesday March 26, 2003 at 18:07
Tom Ciaramitaro
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May 2002
7,967
So, Larry, the magic wand there has to get inside the wall - I'm assuming you need a j-box sized hole near the bottom to manipulate it?

Looks like it's worth looking into. Thanks for taking the time, everyone!
There is no truth anymore. Only assertions. The internet world has no interest in truth, only vindication for preconceived assumptions.
Post 19 made on Wednesday March 26, 2003 at 19:13
Larry Fine
Loyal Member
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August 2001
5,002
No, Tom, a hole near the bottom would let you pull the end of the bit toward you without the tool, using just fingers. In fact, the farther above the bottom plate your hole is, the easier it is to flex the shaft back in.

The handle is the only part that will still be outside the wall. If you insert a flex-bit in a wall, the shaft will be pointing just about straight up, and the bottom end of the bit will be gently against the outside wall.

The hook on the end pulls the bottom part of the shank back towards you, the Y-shaped part near the 'elbow' is the fulcrum, and you apply pressure to re-aim the tip of the bit. The handle is also manipulated to minimize damage to the drywall or plaster around the hole.

You usually end up looking somewhat like an angler trying to net a fish with one hand, while the other arm is way up behind you with the drill trying to jump out of your hand.

It's good to use the best length for the distance; the 6-footers are harder to control if there's a lot still outside the wall. Extensions are available, but I haven't needed one yet. (I'm sure I will, now that I've said that)

I usually put the bit into the wall before attaching the drill, but the job tell you which is better. One important thing is to watch the top end of the shaft; it's easy to mar ceilings and/or cabinetry.

I prefer the screw-point auger type of bit. It's harder to spin, but it drills faster than the other types. ( My 24-volt DeWalt has as much torque as most electric drills) Once the tip of the bit engages the wood, you don't need to keep flexing the shaft.

Another plus is that most flex-bits have hols in both ends for pulling the wire through the hole(s) you just made. It's a LOT easier to pull in the same direction in which you were drilling, as the shank is a lot thinner than the body of the bit.

And, Ernie, if it makes you feel any better, I even cringe when I say or type "you just need to....", so don't feel bad! It's always easier when the other guy is doing it, but it takes a lot longer when you're watching him!

Larry
www.fineelectricco.com
Post 20 made on Wednesday March 26, 2003 at 19:44
Matt
Founding Member
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August 2001
1,802
Well, I feel better when one of 'us' or our kind say it, rather than a Salesman type!
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