I am surprised no one has discussed a surge protector with these plasmas. We encourage our clients to have their electrician's run an "extension" of sorts, from the area behind the plasma, down to the area where the other audio equipment will be hidden. That way, the single most expensive piece of equipment, gets the benefit of a surge protector.

Heather,

Cmack mentioned the surge protection and I think just about everyone here uses them... well uses them when the customer pays for them. I've seen some customers spends a good chunk of change on a system and they provide their own, 15 year old power strip from Walmart. Crazy.. but it happens..

"Crazy" might be giving these people a little too much credit.
I have a client that purchased a sony projector from the web about 2 years ago. We sold him the audio gear that was on a rack on the side wall. He insisted on using his computer grade surge with battery back up. Because the power cord for the projector wouldn't reach his surge, I gave him a Monster Cable AV600 to protect the projector.
About a year later he had a major surge and knocked out the washer / dryer, all tv's, and all the gear we sold him. The only thing still tickin was the projector. Of course I was happy to sell him all new electronics and an HTS 2500. Ever since then I tell that story and 99% of the time a surge goes in.
CMack

With the plasmas I've installed this year, I have done it three ways so far.

The first time, I severed the plug. and fished it down to the outlet below 16" on center from the floor.
Worked, no problem, if you want a true power down, you must remove the plug from the bottom of the plasma. But that's what the customer wanted. Since it was my first, I wans't gonna argue.
For the second, this particular wall was built new with 2x6's instead of 2x4's. I had the wall notched so the plasma was recessed into the wall 3.5" inches with drywall. As for the plug, it was 3.5" deep. And the electrician put the outlet in the wall but wasn't even close to being workable with a clock outlet.
I ended up finding an outlet on the reverse side of the wall. I fished down and instead of cutting off the plug and wiring direct in the box, I cut in a box and used a coax cable wall jack, took out the coupler, used a coping saw to cut a fine line from the edge to the center. sqeezed the plug wire so it was in the center hole of the cable jack and plugged it right into the elec outlet. All in all, it's accessable and not in the way.
The third, I pretty much did the same, but came out in front because they had a plasma table against the wall

Bnc

Please remember, gang, that it is both illegal and hazardous to run flexible cord inside a wall, even straight through to the other side. If you want, I can find the section of the NEC that says so.

Larry
www.fineelectricco.com

I don't know why people are willing to run the extension cord through the wall but wont run romex and hard wire it themsleves. It is not illegal to hardwire it yourself if you follow code. If you aren't sure of the code, just have an electrician friend check your work. Most licensed electricians I know would rather just check it out real quick then waste their time running a wire 5 feet.

WOW, I never really gave this much thought, and I think I'm pretty illegal, here goes-->
The plasma cord runs down the wall, and through the 2x4 base plate running along the basment ceiling.(With all the other input cords)
Then it's connected to a 15amp new extension cord that runs back up through the floor into a closet and into an APC surge type strip(with all my other components)
The strip's cord then goes back down into the basement and lands 2' away into a new 15amp receptacle.
I could install another outlet right behind the plasma, and wrap the excess power cord bhind the plasma???
I cut a huge opening the area of the wall bracket and notched 2" out of the studs so it's more flush on the wall.
None of the AC connections are behind walls, and the TV is only on when someone's in the room staring at it, but I would like to be safe...please fire away...

Larry,

I'm a little confused by the code itself as to the use of flexible codes. Article 400-7 address when flexible cords may be used.

Number 8 says "Appliances where the fastening means and mechanical connections are specifically designed to permit ready removal for maintenance and repair, and the appliance is intended or identified for flexible cord connection.

Article 400-8 Uses Not Permitted. "Unless specifically permitted in Section 400-7".... "(2) Where run through holes in walls", etc.

Anybody run into this?

Rob, the first item you mentioned is for cases where the removal of the appliance, or one of its panels or other parts, exposes the cable itself, and/or its connection or plug.

That's not the same as running a cord in or through a wall. A clock receptacle keeps the entire cord on the room side of the wall surface, but dropping the cord into a hollow wall doesn't.

If you made a recess behind the plasma screen, and removing the unit exposes the cord (all of it), then I believe you'd fall into the "permitted use" catagory. That's the idea behind my first post in this thread.

If you look at an appliance that hides its electrical connection, if it is wired with a 'permanent' type of wire, such as NM cable, the junction box will be accessible before moving the unit. A dishwasher is an example.

Larry
www.fineelectricco.com

I got tired of waiting for flaky electritians. If I left it to the customer things just got screwed up. Thus I went and took the C10 (california) in addition to my B and C7. Now I do my own electrical and just charge more for it. All part of the service

I have to agree with Larry here, running extension cords through a wall cavities is dangerous and illegal. My solution for this is to hang the wall bracket temporarily, mark the open area inside the bracket, and cut this area out. I then frame out the area form stud to stud and surface mount the plug on the bottom plate of the new framed opening. I can then mount a surge protector to keep the plasma safe. I inquired about this practice with my local inspector and he said it was fine. when not mounting above a fireplace, I try to 'encourage' the customer to allow me to mount the plasma above an existing plug or at least over a stud bay with a plug below. I can then add the new plug without running back to the breaker panel. I know that this creates a cavity in the customers wall and that could be a problem for some. I just ask the customer which is cheaper, a little drywall repair later or replacing the plasma because of a lighting strike? drywall always wins.

Also, if there's not an outlet below the space you want to place the TV , don't forget to check the back side of the wall, if it's an interior wall. There may be a convenient outlet there.

Larry
www.fineelectricco.com

The Monster cord works well. We use them on every plasma installation so that we can connect the plasma to a surge protector/conditioner. I don't know about running them through the wall without any protection though. We've always used metal conduit for fishing the wires and for protection. Not the greatest for video but at least I can sleep at night without worrying about a transformer exploding down the street from my client's house. The clock recepticle is scary if your'e worried about major surges. Try explaining why the plasma is toast when you've sold the client surge protectors for the rest of the system. Make sure you tape the plasma power cord to the Monster cord if it has to be in the conduit(for those extra six inches).

Larry,

I have a question for you. I was wonderign if this is possible to do and if it would be a good solution..

behind the plasma mount a clock recepticle plug. plug the plasma to this.
Run romex to some sort of outlet at the equipment rack that you could then plug some sort of male to male plug from that outlet to the protection. that way you have protection and you are legal in the walls with the romex. But is this possible?

Eric
http://www.integrationpros.com

Eric, I couldn't find a pic to display here, but if you go to the
On page 1, there is a flange-mount male chassis connector, item #5278C, that you could mount on a drilled blank plate.

Page 10 has a similar item, #5239, called a motor inlet, looks like the first one, different color.

And on page 16, there is a similar inlet, #4937, already mounted on an aluminum outdoor plate, with a cover that could be pried off.

Then, make a short extension cord to run from the power inlet to your surge strip.

As an alternative, click on line R, and you can find receptacles that include internal surge protection, such as item #8280, available both with and without isolated grounds. You don't need IG if you're using a plastic box and NM cable.

Larry
www.fineelectricco.com