Hello everyone,

I just got a TSU 3000 remote, and have just about set up my first successful PCF file to run my entertainments system. Now to the lighting!!!!

I would like to be able to control my living room overhead lights with remote. I talked via chat session with X-10 and they recommended 1 WS-14A master switch and 2 WS-12A slave switches to control the lights as well as an IR543 to switch from IR to X-10 RC control.
Now to my questions:

1) Do I need to buy an additional remote to learn these IR543 IR codes, or are these in many PCF's or CCF's available for download?

2) I would eventually also like control of the ceiling fan (on/off, low, medium, and high). Does anyone know of switches that would perform that function using the same IR543 controller or is that a different animal altogether?

Thank you so much in advance for any advice you can give,

Michael

Michael,

To bad they started you out with the cheap switches, not very satisfying unless you just want some basic control.

1. The ccf you need is in the files section of this site. Should have also came with your program disk's library.

You can use just about any appliance switch for the fan, rated for inductive loads. The IR543 will control these switches.

Bill
www.homeautomationnet.com

Bill,

As luck would have it, I have not ordered the switches yet. What would you recommend? Basically, I don't know enough yet to know which are the cheap switches.

Thanks,

Michael

Another question:

Would I be much better off with a PCS scene lighting starter kit? or some other scene lighting kit? I just want on/off and dimming control. I will currently only be controlling one light.

If I need a scene starter kit, would I still need other switches for the 2 slaves? I currently have 3 wall switches that control the same overhead light in the room.

Thanks again,

Michael

Michael,

The scene lighting kit is nice and PCS is top end, but you could get by with a Switchlinc 2384 and an IR543. This would be about half of the scene kit, you don't get scenes but you can dim and bright with your remote.

Bill
www.homeautomationnet.com

Bill,
I'm in the same boat as Michael. I'm curious, what do you mean by "you don't get scenes but you can dim and bright with your remote". Also, I noticed that there are two versions,the IR543 and IR543AH with significant price difference. Can you explain why I would choose one over the other. Finally, how do I determine if the switches are appropriate for my ceiling fans? You mentioned that they must be rated for inductive loads, but I'm not sure I know what that means. Can you explain?
Thanks for your help. I've been reading the information on the forums but some are quite confusion for me.
Daniel

Bill,

Great! Now, can I use the 23894W ToggleLinc Lite Dimmer instead of the 2384W Switchlinc? The Togglelinc would fit in my existing wall plates and given that all three are triple switches that would make the changout a lot easier. So basically, is there any difference between the control of the two?
What does "direct dim" mean?

Assuming that is correct, I believe I need the following:
23894W ToggleLinc Lite Dimmer (1)
23892W: ToggleLinc Companion (Slave) switches (2)
IR543 (1)

This should give me on/off and dimming/brightening capabilities for the overhead lights. Correct?

Now, Can you recommend a model of an inductive fan switch? My fan is controlled (on/off) by a wall switch currently, but as I mentioned earlier I want IR control of on/off + 3 speeds.

Thank you so much for your help, and I will be ordering at least the light controls upon your response.

- Michael

Daniel,

All dimming X10 switches have a basic address lets say "A1" you can send on, off, bright and dim and they will respond.

A scene switch (PCS, Switchlinc 2380/2386) has a basic address but also has between 16 and 64 scene addresses. These scene addresses can be shared between all scene switches. So lets say you have 3 switches with basic address's A1, A2 and A3. With these addresses you could control them, but you can then set a all three with scene address let say A5 which when sent will cause all of them to respond simultaneously and go to a set intensity over a set time (ramp rate). All the switches can have the same scene address but can have independent ramp rates and intensities. This allows you to paste A5 on a macr like DVD play and have all the lighting set. You can then do a scene for pause, in my house pause turns on the bathroom and kitchen lights because that’s where I would be headed.

The IR543 can send out 16 unit codes for one house code. You select the house code via a dial on top of the unit. It works with all X10 capable remotes. The IR543AH has the ability to set the house code via IR from PC programmable remotes, or a remote that can be taught by a PC programmable one. This allows control of 256 X10 addresses instead of 16. The AH is nice but usually more than most folks need, especially if you are doing scenes, it does offer a lot of expansion so is popular.

Finally inductive loads are loads that have a motor. It is best not to dim motors, for speed control, it causes problems. It does sometimes work but only about 50% of the time. When it does not work the fan will hum. If you want reliable control use an appliance switch like the ACT RS115 or XPS3. If you want to try dimming the fan you can use a PCS switch that can be set for on/off appliance operation if you have the hum problem.

Hope this helps

Bill
www.homeautomationnet.com