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Questions for X10 techies
This thread has 9 replies. Displaying all posts.
Post 1 made on Wednesday October 13, 1999 at 17:35
David B.
Historic Forum Post
I've got a ghost that every now and then turn all of my X-10 controlled lights on. I want to find the source of this but I need some help.

What radio frequencies do X-10 transmitters use? Are these frequencies also used by other consumer products? Is it possible that, say, some kid playing with a remote controlled car could intitate an X-10 event in my house?

Are "ALL LIGHTS ON" X-10 commands functionally simpler than any others? If my ghost is a neighbor using X-10 devices, I'd think there would be other events happening than just an occasional ALL LIGHTS ON. If it's a blip in my electrical system (fluctuation in current) I'd also expect more different events.

The only other input to suspect is my IR543. When the ghost appears I'm usually the only one in the house, and not anywhere near my Pronto or any other IR X-10 controller. Is there anything that might send a stray IR flash that a IR543 might mistake for ALL LIGHTS ON?

Has anyone else had this problem? Tell us about it here. Thanks.

Dave
OP | Post 2 made on Monday October 18, 1999 at 14:01
Rob Stevens
Historic Forum Post
Yeah, I had this problem until I figured out what was going on.

If you're using an x-10 universal remote, you may be nudging the POWER button. I found that sometimes all the lights would just turn on, because I was bumping the power button, or rolling over onto it (in bed ... I LOVE my X-10), or otherwise causing the problem myself.

The X-10 key is usually the LAST one I hit before going off to bed. If I don't remember to hit the TV button again, I will occasionally hit that Power button. Whoops.
OP | Post 3 made on Monday October 18, 1999 at 21:50
David B
Historic Forum Post
Thanks, Rob. I do the same thing occasionally. Problem is that my X-10 ghost usually turns all lights on when no one in the house is anywhere near a remote. I'm beginning to suspect a faulty eagle eye motion sensor. I use it in the kitchen to turn lights on when someone enters, and loghts off when they leave. A few times I've noticed the ALL LIGHTS ON event happens at about the time I'm expecting the kitchen eagle eye to turn the kitchen light OFF. I ruled out the IR543 by unplugging it for a day. The Ghost still struck. Since no one was using any remote RF or IR the ghost has to be either an electrical glitch or the eagle eye. That's the current (get it?) theory, anyway!

Dave
OP | Post 4 made on Tuesday October 19, 1999 at 15:08
Rob Stevens
Historic Forum Post
Interesting. I've had issues with my EagleEye in the bathroom occasionally not coming ON when it's supposed to (quite disconcerting at night ...), but never had it turn anything other that it was supposed to on.

I've got A15 set to the EagleEye and it's SocketRockets, and A16 left open. Speaking of which, does anyone know how to disable the Night/Day function on these units? X-10 claims it can be done in the manual, but never tells how to do it!

Anyway, have you tried changing to a different housecode? Perhaps you're getting interferance?
OP | Post 5 made on Wednesday October 20, 1999 at 09:48
Chris Couture
Historic Forum Post
Dave,
I would try setting the suspect motion sensor to another code but since the motion sensor does not send an All Lights Off, maybe the RF transceiver is to blame. Have you tried another RF transceiver?

Chris
OP | Post 6 made on Wednesday October 20, 1999 at 11:44
Roland S
Historic Forum Post
Regarding the EagleEye (or Hawkeyes), I too have experienced things not turning ON when motion is detected.

I placed a Hawkeye II in a bedroom walk-in closet for motion to turn on a X-10 wall switch in the closet when I walk in. Occasionally, it won't turn on the lights.

The conclusion I came up with is that when I open up the closet door, light also enters the closet. Therefore, motion and light is detected at the same time, and signals for each is transmitted simultaneously causing the two signals to collide.

Does anyone know if there's any truth to that?

I've also experienced where the motion OFF signal is (most likely) sent but not received by the module (or possibly colliding with another signal), causing the closet light to remain ON for hours.

My fix: got rid of X-10 Hawkeye and wall switch for that closet and replaced it with a motion sensing wall switch from Lowes for $11.94. This switch never needs to be turned on manually or by remote or as a timed event, so I really don't need an X-10 unit in there.

Roland

** As far as disabling dawn/dusk features (and freeing up the Unit Code +1), I believe you can take it apart and put black electrical tape over the photocell. I haven't done it myself, but I've heard it's very simple to do (few minutes of work).
OP | Post 7 made on Wednesday October 20, 1999 at 20:02
Ed Maurus
Historic Forum Post
I have one of those $11.94 motion sensing wall switches in my basement pantry. It works good but when I turn on my dryer it activates the switch and then it is stuck on, I have to physically turn the switch off to reset it. I then tried the hawkeye approach and like you found it to be unreliable. Any thoughts out there?
OP | Post 8 made on Wednesday October 20, 1999 at 20:34
Chris Couture
Historic Forum Post
I have a Hawkeye in my bathroom that turns on a nightlight when it is dark and senses motion. It works everytime!? I AM using a amplified coupler so this may be the kicker to my sucess, who knows? My RF receiver is located about 20 feet away from the motion sensor. The motion sensor is located about knee level on the window seal pointing through the bathroom into the bedroom. Once I approach the bathroom it turns on everytime. Sometimes it is delayed a second or so, but it has never not activated. I also have a hawkeye located by the front door and have had 100% success with it.

I'd try to relocate the RF receiver and maybe try a new set of batteries. Anyway, hope you can get as good of results as I have had.

Chris Couture
OP | Post 9 made on Thursday October 21, 1999 at 10:39
David B
Historic Forum Post
Considering the common remarks in everyone's experience with the hawkeye I think I've deduced it's performance strategy and it's a pretty crummy one.

The motion sensor isn't active continuously. That probably runs down the batteries too fast anyway. It seems to take a reading about every 10-15 seconds. I can walk into my kitchen and if I'm not detected immediately FREEZE, then watch the hawkeye. A little red light flashes when it is polling. I can move right after this flash and not get detected so long as I freeze before the next one. The light may NEVER come on at all.

Since it sends an OFF code once it has seen no action for a minute, the light often turns OFF on us while in the kitchen just because we weren't moving enough at the moments it scanned.

It would have been nice to have this documented from X-10. I can still find uses for mine knowing it's detection strategy, but it sucks at what I originally bought it for.

Dave
OP | Post 10 made on Thursday October 21, 1999 at 11:12
Chris Couture
Historic Forum Post
Dave,
I do agree with you and for what I am using mine for they work great. I wouldn't have them in use for a security system or something I needed 100% accuracy on (even though they have been 100% for me). I would choose a nice motion sensor used for security systems and have it tied into a true hardwired X-10 transmitter. I forget the part no. but it is a module that is hardwired to the motion sensor and hardwired to the electrical system. It has the ability to send an X-10 signal when a contact is closed or open. This would be one way to have real X-10 motion sensor that could be trusted and would activate without a delay, everytime. Another way would be to use the outdoor flood light system that X-10 offers. It is a little ugly and large but would offer full time protection and hardwired X-10 performance.

Chris Couture


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