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Topic:
What am I doing wrong?
This thread has 26 replies. Displaying posts 1 through 15.
Post 1 made on Thursday September 30, 1999 at 15:37
Doug
Historic Forum Post
I just installed several wall switches (Powerhouse) and all work fine save one. It will turn on from the switch but not from the remote or pc controller (Home Director). When turned on at the switch however, it will turn off from the remote and the pc. I swapped the switch with one that tested ok and got the same result. I have installed a Leviton phase coupler and all the other modules in the house work fine. Small house (<2000 sf). Any suggestions?
OP | Post 2 made on Thursday September 30, 1999 at 16:06
Chris Couture
Historic Forum Post
What kind of lighting are you using the switch on? The dimmer type switches can’t be used on florescent lights.

Is the switch on the same circuit as any item that may cause power line noise? These would include TV’s, computers, and surge suppressors.

What is the load of the circuit you are controlling? The switches are rated at around 500 watts, about 8-60 watt bulbs.

Is the on command possibly getting triggered twice at the same time by the computer and/or remote? This could cause the signals to crash and burn. I don't think this is the problem but it’s a suggestion.

Chris Couture
OP | Post 3 made on Thursday September 30, 1999 at 17:34
Simon Ngan
Historic Forum Post
Hmm, I have the exact problem - the wall switch will turn on from the local switch, but not from any other sources. However, it can be turned off by any remotes/controllers.

This switch is working okay as I got a new one so I got a spare one sitting around. I installed it in the kitchen with a 100W load ceiling light.

I can dim up/down and off from a Palm Pad, but not ON from any controllers except the switch itself. Please help.

Simon
OP | Post 4 made on Thursday September 30, 1999 at 19:58
Doug
Historic Forum Post
Chris - Thanks for the suggestions - The switch is controlling a single 60 watt bulb and is the only load on the circuit. The rest of the circuit is comprised of 4 wall outlets, none of which are used. I don't think anything else is sending an on command to that unit and I've tried several different house codes and unit numbers.
OP | Post 5 made on Thursday September 30, 1999 at 21:51
Chris
Historic Forum Post
Try putting a 100 watt buld in the fixture. The switches work through the bulb and may require more of a load.
Chris
OP | Post 6 made on Thursday September 30, 1999 at 22:00
Simon Ngan
Historic Forum Post
Something I want to add, the wall switch that I installed today is right beside to another one(fluoresent), I believe they are in the same circuit. Could this be a problem?

Simon
OP | Post 7 made on Thursday September 30, 1999 at 22:58
Chris Couture
Historic Forum Post
Simon,
Probally not. I wish I could come up with a solid answer for your problem, but I can't. I can send you out a circuit tester and you could test your circuits. This will show you the signal level and allow you to see if certain items are "eating" the X-10 signal. You could return them when you were done. How big is the house you live in. Do you have the X-10 amplified?
Chris
OP | Post 8 made on Friday October 1, 1999 at 00:04
Simon Ngan
Historic Forum Post
Chris,

The house is about 2500 ft (two storey excluding basement). Basement is not finish so there are only several wall receptacles and some ceiling lamps.

Is the testing device simple to use? Like plugging in to a wall receptacle and that's it? Or I need to do something specific? I will seriously considering loaning it from you if you wouldn't mind. But I do want to wait a little longer and see if I can isolate the problem.

No, I do not have any amplifier installed in the house for X10. Maybe that is something I need to do. I will need to hire an electrician to do it though since I'm just an no-brainer in front of a circuit breaker box. I'm also considering putting a whole house surge since I now have invested some money on X10, I don't want them to get toasted by a lightning.

Thanks Chris for your offer. I'll let you know if I really need it.

Simon
OP | Post 9 made on Friday October 1, 1999 at 00:34
Chris
Historic Forum Post
Simon,
Yes, They just plug in and read the level of the signal, that's it. If you don't have an amplifier, I would recommend one on that size of a house, especially two story. You'd probally want to hire a professional although I'd try to walk you through it if you wanted to try. I will e-mail you a drawing and instructions tomorrow. A amplified coupler will improve the performance a lot.
Chris Couture
OP | Post 10 made on Friday October 1, 1999 at 00:58
Korey Sherwin
Historic Forum Post
Chris,
I would be interested in your drawings and instructions as well..

Thanks,
OP | Post 11 made on Friday October 1, 1999 at 01:02
Chris
Historic Forum Post
Korey,
I will include you also!
Chris
OP | Post 12 made on Saturday October 2, 1999 at 21:03
Simon Ngan
Historic Forum Post
Chris,

Thank you so much for the instructions, it was very descriptive. However, I'd still get someone else to do the "dirty" work. I just don't feel comfortable when working with so many wires and there will be a lot of pressure on me.

Anyway I tried something else on the kitchen light and found something interesting you might want to know. I install a Rocket Socket onto the light, set it to A1. Volia, it worked from the Palm Pad. Yes, I could turn on the thing from the Pad or the computer. I could also turn it off without any difficulties. However, when I switched back to the wall switch, I'm out of luck.

I'm going to try the wall switch some place else just to make sure the problem isn't coming from the switch itself.

Once again, thanks Chris for your detailed information.

Simon
OP | Post 13 made on Monday October 4, 1999 at 11:31
Doug
Historic Forum Post
Some follow up on this problem. I started looking for a source of noise that could be causing this and found one of my computers (out of 3) that when turned off, allows the wall switch to work normally. Only problem is that this is the computer all my X-10 software is loaded on. I'm trying to find a line filter to try - any other suggestions?
OP | Post 14 made on Monday October 4, 1999 at 11:44
Chris Couture
Historic Forum Post
Use the X-10 inline filter XPPF. They sell for under 20.00 and should do the trick. Glad you tracked down the problem.

Chris Couture
OP | Post 15 made on Monday October 4, 1999 at 20:44
Ed Maurus
Historic Forum Post
Check to see if it is the computer or the monitor. For me it was the monitor and a filter solved the problem.
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