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Topic:
TSU7000 Screen Replacement How To Tutorial
This thread has 47 replies. Displaying posts 1 through 15.
Post 1 made on Monday October 15, 2007 at 02:10
Greg (Dallas)
Long Time Member
Joined:
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October 2007
18
I recently purchased a 7000 from eBay with a cracked screen. I found plenty of info here on how to change the screen out, but saw no specific step by step tutorials. For those of you that might need more detailed assistance, I thought I'd put one together.

Thanks to everyone who has already posted here in the past with invaluable information on this process. I've now got a working 7000 due to their contributions. I'm restating some of the previous information in this post as well to keep it consolidated.

To begin, you need to determine whether you only need the glass touchscreen or the entire screen including the LCD. If the glass on your remote is broken but the screen still comes on and you don't see black lines or smears and the image still looks crisp then just the touchscreen glass is broken. You can get new glass here for 40 bucks: [Link: gethightech.com]

If the LCD itself is broken as well, you'll need a whole replacement screen here:
[Link: gethightech.com]

The image below shows my remote with just the touchscreen shattered. You can see in the image on the right that the display itself is just fine so I bought the glass only.



Tools Required

  • T6 Torx driver
  • Small flatblade screwdriver
  • Exacto or modelling knife
  • Goo Gone

Procedure


Step 1
Remove the battery cover and battery. Note: I have converted my remote to run on rechargeable AAA batteries rather than the standard battery pack which is what you see below.

Use a T6 torx driver to remove the 4 torx screws holding the back cover on the unit, circled in red. Remove the back case from the unit. This initial part can be tricky but just go slow and be patient. I found it was easiest on my remote to get it to separate from the front by the IR shield. The back locks into the front via some tabs so as you pull it apart you may notice one side or the other will hang. Just be gentle but firm and it should come loose.



Step 2
Remove the 3 torx screws holding the circuit board to the unit, also circled in red.

Step 3
Remove the ribbon cables which connect the circuit board to the LCD and touchscreen. To do so, the smaller connector has a latch that needs to be moved straight out to unlock. Then pull the cable free (carefully!).

The wider cable has a much thinner lock that needs to be lifted straight up and back to release the cable. Again pull the cable loose very carefully once unlocked. Use the arrows below as a guide to unlocking the two latches. I used a very small flat bladed screwdriver to slip underneath the cables and pull them loose.

Once the cables are unplugged, remove the circuit board from the unit and lay it aside.


Step 4
Remove the button contact pad from the back of the remote. It is held in place in 3 places by sitting over plastic pins (circled in red). Simply lift the entire pad up off the pins to remove it.


Step 5
Remove the button sets, labelled 1, 2, and 3 from the remote.
Remove the gray plastic spacer, labelled 4, from the remote. (Note it's position for reassembly).


Step 6
Remove the screen and plastic surround (outlined in red) from the front of the case. Once removed, separate the screen from the surround. Note the tabs that hold the screen in place (circled in red). Just bend out the plastic a bit to free one side and slip the screen out.


Step 7
You should now have a fully disassembled remote as shown


If you purchased an entire LCD and touchscreen, you may be able to skip the remainder of this tutorial. Compare the relative sizes of the glass touchscreen on the LCD of the new set to the old. If the glass appears to be different size than the original, skip down to step 13. If it is identical, you can replace the old screen with the new one in the plastic surround and reverse the disassembly process to put everything back together.

Step 8
This step will separate the touchscreen from the LCD. It is held in place by double-sided tape. Use an exacto or modelling knife or a razor blade to very carefully split the touchscreen from the LCD. As you separate it, keep an eye out for small broken glass pieces that may dislodge as you flex the touchscreen during removal.


Step 9
This shows the separated touchscreen and LCD. I used the razor blade and goo gone to very carefully remove the leftover tape residue. The new glass from pdaparts already has the tape on the screen ready for application.


Step 10
This shows the original screen overlaid on the pdaparts replacement screen. It matches dimensions in width, but notice the new screen is a good bit longer (marked in red). This will require modifying the plastic surround to hold the new screen properly.


Step 11
Apply the new glass to the LCD. If you look inside the plastic surround which holds the screen you will see small structural tabs sticking out around all the sides (circled in red below). The intent of these is to support the LCD itself and not the glass screen, i.e. the metal case of the LCD should rest on them. One side is quite a bit wider than the other, so keep those in mind as you line up the glass on the LCD. Align it to the top of the LCD and very very slightly indented from the left.

Be very careful on this step as you only get one shot once you start sticking it down!


Step 12
This shows the new screen installed on the LCD


Step 13
Because the new glass is longer than the old the two bottom 'tabs' in the plastic surround must be trimmed off. Remember, they were to support the LCD case which was exposed with the original glass. The lower right tab is shown in the picture below circled in red. Using an exacto knife or razor blade you want to remove most if not all of that tab, as well as the same one on the other side.


This shows the left side after trimming.


Step 14
Test fit the screen into the surround. Flip it over screen side up and check the gap between the screen and the surround on all sides (outlined in red in the picture). There should be a slight gap and the most important part is that it should be even on all sides.

If it is wider in one place than others, abnormal stress will be placed on the glass and it will probably crack again in the near future. Flip the screen back over and trim the tabs where ever the gaps are too large.


Step 15
The screen is ready to go. Reverse the disassembly steps to reassemble the remote. Take particular care when you place the screen and its surround back in the case. Make sure that the surround is fitted into the case properly all around. I noticed on mine that the top would appear to be in place but actually was not.

The original touchscreen ribbon was double-stick taped to the back of the LCD. If you have double stick tape, do the same thing otherwise use some normal tape to hold it in place.

The short cable is relatively easy to put back in the circuit board socket. The wider cable can be a bit trickier. Make sure that the latch gate is raised all the way up and that the cable is perfectly lined up as you push it back into place. It should seat all the way to the tabs that stick out from the sides.

The final result of my screen replacement is shown below.


I hope you find this tutorial useful. Feel free to email me with any questions.
Greg (Dallas)
Post 2 made on Monday October 15, 2007 at 08:51
Rodsystel
Lurking Member
Joined:
Posts:
January 2007
8
Gregg:
Great tutorial!
I did the same replacment. It would have been nice to have this to look at before I did it.

Thanks for the post
Post 3 made on Monday October 15, 2007 at 10:32
Falcon1
Long Time Member
Joined:
Posts:
May 2007
44
Really good tutorial!
Thank god, I wasn't in a need for it yet (and hopefully never will be)!
Good Work!
Post 4 made on Friday October 19, 2007 at 13:07
thomask
Long Time Member
Joined:
Posts:
March 2007
17
I had just cracked my screen a week before you posted this. I had no idea what I was going to do, probably ship it off somewhere to be fixed at a cost of $150 or so. I read some of the other posts that described (without pictures) the process, but I didn't feel 100% comfortable doing it as I was afraid I'd do more damage than good. Then, just as I was ready to ship it off the next day, your post came through and I thought I could do it and I'm not mechanically inclined by any means. It was perfect in the description in every way and I successfully replaced my screen and the Pronto works like a charm, actually responds better than before! Awesome job and thanks a million! I'm comfortable that if it ever happens again I can do the same no problem.
OP | Post 5 made on Friday October 19, 2007 at 15:40
Greg (Dallas)
Long Time Member
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October 2007
18
Glad to hear it went well! That makes the time doing pics, photoshop, and writeup well worth it. I guess the timing was good too... I was planning to do the writeup a day later but decided to stay up late and get it done instead. :D
Greg (Dallas)
Post 6 made on Saturday October 20, 2007 at 09:43
ossocao
Active Member
Joined:
Posts:
April 2004
637
For those who need a full screen replacment:

I don't Think that the PdaParts LCD will work, they are selling refurbished now, that means that the LCD part of the screen came from an ipaq.

I tested several used ones and none worked, only new ones worked ion the 7000s. I don't know why maybe ipaq stress the screen more and when you put it in a 7000 lines show all around. Maybe the ribon get bited I don't know.

So be warned!
Post 7 made on Tuesday December 18, 2007 at 11:17
msoler
Lurking Member
Joined:
Posts:
December 2007
3
Will this same part work with the TSU3000? If not what digitizer is the best fit? Also, I've seen other posts that mention soldering contacts. Is there soldering involved or is it simply a matter of plugging in the ribbon cable from the new screen?

There are many digitizers being sold on Ebay, most from China. Can anyone point me in the right direction for a TSU3000 screen replacement.

Finally, for kicks and giggles, is there a way to turn a 3000 into a color screen like the 7000 or 7500? Or, does that require new circuitry, processor, etc.?
Post 8 made on Wednesday December 19, 2007 at 06:39
ossocao
Active Member
Joined:
Posts:
April 2004
637
:-) No way to turn a 3000 a color remote.

Go for a 1940s series ipaq digitizer for a 3000. I whould buy at pdaparts.com, the ones in e-bay from china has a poor quality and sometimes does not work.

Unsoldering and soldering needed to replace a 3000 digitizer.
Post 9 made on Tuesday March 25, 2008 at 22:34
bbelli
Long Time Member
Joined:
Posts:
December 2005
100
Hi,

my pronto screen has broken and I need to repair it. I went here ([Link: gethightech.com]
) as directed above and dont see the pronto screen I need. I have the TSU7000. can someone please point me to a link for the screen I need? I believe just the glass is broken and would like to start there.

Thank you for your help,
Bob
Thank you,
Bob
Post 10 made on Wednesday March 26, 2008 at 14:04
tonyptony
Long Time Member
Joined:
Posts:
January 2005
63
Well, I asked this in another thread, but will the same parts work in a RC9500? If not does anyone know the right replacement part numbers for the Marantz model?
Post 11 made on Thursday March 27, 2008 at 23:40
ddarche
Mr. RemoteQuest
Joined:
Posts:
February 2002
2,309
Otherwise, send it to Philips repair staion in Illinois and for $200 they will put a new screen in for you.
Dave D'Arche
http://RemoteQuest.com
Fine Home Theater Remote Controls & Solutions - Programming services for most remotes
Post 12 made on Sunday March 30, 2008 at 21:54
ossocao
Active Member
Joined:
Posts:
April 2004
637
On March 26, 2008 at 14:04, tonyptony said...
Well, I asked this in another thread, but will the same
parts work in a RC9500? If not does anyone know the right
replacement part numbers for the Marantz model?

RC9500, TSU7000 and TSU7500 use the same screen.
Post 13 made on Saturday May 3, 2008 at 13:11
bbelli
Long Time Member
Joined:
Posts:
December 2005
100
ok...I followed all the steps and all seemed to have gone well....but I have a very strange issue...if the icon I want to press is at the top of the screen, the remote "thinks" it is at the bottom, meaning if I press the bottom, the remote "thinks" I am pressing a button at the top. Does this make sense? can anyone tell me if they have an idea where I went wrong? I tried to calibrate and I can get through 3 of the 4 calibration steps, but the remote constantly fails at the last step....help....please!!!!!
Thank you,
Bob
Post 14 made on Saturday May 3, 2008 at 19:54
Lyndel McGee
RC Moderator
Joined:
Posts:
August 2001
12,994
Did you, by chance flip the small ribbon cable in the wrong direction?
Lyndel McGee
Philips Pronto Addict/Beta Tester
Post 15 made on Sunday May 4, 2008 at 08:20
bbelli
Long Time Member
Joined:
Posts:
December 2005
100
i am not sure how....I feel like I am in bizzarro world or something. everthing seemed to line up properly.
Thank you,
Bob
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