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Can I use a Xantech IR emitter with the Harmony Ultimate RF base?
This thread has 6 replies. Displaying all posts.
Post 1 made on Thursday June 6, 2013 at 01:13
PSS
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I need to know if I can swap the ir blaster with a Xantech emitter so I can cleanly control a TV on a articulating mount (the blaster wire is to short).
I'm pretty sure the unit is the Ultimate. It could possibly be the "Smart Control". I believe Xantech uses a 12volt type emitter. If the Xantech doesn't work will another brand work? Maybe one with a different voltage, etc?
Post 2 made on Thursday June 13, 2013 at 21:45
Craig Aguiar-Winter
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You could just stick a Harmony blaster on the front of your Xantech receiver. Hokey, but it would work.
My wife says I can't do sarcasm. She says I just sound like an a$$hole.
Post 3 made on Monday June 17, 2013 at 09:58
pingu
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On June 6, 2013 at 01:13, PSS said...
I need to know if I can swap the ir blaster with a Xantech emitter so I can cleanly control a TV on a articulating mount (the blaster wire is to short).
I'm pretty sure the unit is the Ultimate. It could possibly be the "Smart Control". I believe Xantech uses a 12volt type emitter. If the Xantech doesn't work will another brand work? Maybe one with a different voltage, etc?

I too want to know this but for connecting the Hub to a Xantech connecting block. What voltage does the IR signal use? 0-12V would be compatible with Xantech, something else would require conversion (like Global Cache -> Xantech).
Post 4 made on Sunday January 4, 2015 at 14:13
smileyw
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I know this is an old thread, but I want to post to it anyway. I searched the nets for the answer to this, and finally was able to do it. I want to post here how I did it, so others can do the same...

I have a Connect Hub, but I bet this would work for any of the logitech systems because they all seem to use the same emitters.

It is pretty simple, Logitech does in fact use the same signaling as Xantech, so I bought a 2.5mm MONO cable (I couldn't get a stereo to work no matter how I wired it), cut the cable and spliced the wires inside. In mine, it was red (tip, or front), black (ring or back). I connected red (tip) to the IR, and black (ring) to ground connections of an Xantech input of a connecting block. This worked perfectly.
I used:
[Link: amazon.com] (cut the cable in 2 so I could use it for both my hubs.)
[Link: amazon.com] (but anything should work, this is just what I had handy, but keep in mind you will need the power supply, and obviously emmiters.)

Good luck!
Post 5 made on Saturday November 26, 2016 at 12:09
IDMiner
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1
This worked like a champ! Thanks for sharing! :)
Post 6 made on Sunday March 12, 2017 at 13:53
highfigh
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On June 6, 2013 at 01:13, PSS said...
I need to know if I can swap the ir blaster with a Xantech emitter so I can cleanly control a TV on a articulating mount (the blaster wire is to short).
I'm pretty sure the unit is the Ultimate. It could possibly be the "Smart Control". I believe Xantech uses a 12volt type emitter. If the Xantech doesn't work will another brand work? Maybe one with a different voltage, etc?

Old thread, but the info doesn't change. Much.

They're generally interchangeable- LEDs use 5V. You can use 3.5mm cables to extend the length (the kind used for headphones work fine) and you can use Xantech, Proficient, Russound or other IR distribution parts for this as long as they don't need four conductors or use a confirmation flash on the emitter (these use three conductors). For any device that has a 3.5mm jack on the back for IR input (and the manufacturers really need to yank their heads out when it comes to this), you can use a cable with 3.5mm on each end. This completely eliminates the problems with IR sensors going blind when direct sunlight or light from Plasma TVs and florescent lights hits the sensor.
My mechanic told me, "I couldn't repair your brakes, so I made your horn louder."
Post 7 made on Thursday July 16, 2020 at 19:26
mak99
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On January 4, 2015 at 14:13, smileyw said...
In mine, it was red (tip, or front), black (ring or back). I connected red (tip) to the IR, and black (ring) to ground connections of an Xantech input of a connecting block. This worked perfectly.

As did for me - exactly the info I was searching for!  I'm using the Harmony Elite...

I also discovered something for the first time in my decade+ of using the Xantech connecting blocks - the 4-screw plug-in terminal is exactly that...plug-in!  Since my 791-44 was already installed in my rack...on the backside...underneath a lower shelf, I thought I'd have to completely remove it from the rack so that I could get the two tiny wires stabbed into the appropriate screw openings.  But when I was test-fitting on a spare 789-44 I noticed that the terminal pops right out.  So I was able to pop out the one from the 791-44, easily connect the wires, then pop the terminal right back in.  This wire connects to the IR#1 output on the Hub, and it controls the system perfectly.

I hope this helps someone else in the future, even though I've revived this thread from the dead...


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