On new construction, who would you say is generally responsible for doorbell wiring...electrician or low voltage guy?

NOTE: This doesn't include considerations such as Doorbird, video cameras, smart locks, etc.

I've always been of the mind that this is the electrician's deal. Thoughts?

Depends- is it the kind with a transformer? Electrician, because it uses 120VAC.

Electricians always pull the wire for the doorbells here (Western Canada). We will sometimes run a cat6 if we need one.

Electrician has always done it here as well. Cat6 by us if it’s required.

It's on the electrician, but we always pull a CYA Cat6.

Be a hero. Learn from some intercom companies how to handle this and always be ready to step in and do it.

Then when a prima donna thinks it's below him, you can step forward and say that you handle all low voltage and communication wiring, even though the other guy should have been ready to step up. I mean, how many of the last twenty houses he wired had no doorbell wiring?

In a related vein, I managed to get a garage door controller guy into the garage before drywall and he ran the 22-2 (I think) where it needed to go, but behind the drywall. GC thought that was a pretty neat upgrade. I thought it was dumb not to have always been concealed.

Brad recommended this to me, and I could see you wiring the doorbell and not needing the electrician.

[Link: amazon.com]

Yes but we are talking new construction here. So a conventional transformer, put onto an electrical box, in the location for a conventional doorbell chime, is the proper way. (In other words, a standard installation).

This will vary by location and local codes. Around here, the electricians install a 2 gang box at the door chime location. Put a cheap 10/15VA transformer in the box (not good enough for most video doorbells). Run 22/2 bell wire to the doorbell location and drill a small 1/4" hole for the wire.

What I always recommend and do for new construction is = Install a deep 3 gang box at the chime location (most door chimes will easily cover a 3 gang box). Install a 30/40VA transformer. Run 2 Cat6 wire to the doorbell location (23awg Cat6, not that 24awg Cat6 stuff). A Cat6 from the chime location to my rack/central equipment location.
So now I can wire it for just a conventional doorbell/chime setup, if the customer wishes for now. Or any video doorbell on the market. I can do POE Ethernet to a professional door station and have extra pairs to ring the chime in the house, etc..
At the doorbell location I drill a 1" hole thru the wall, install a vapor barrier box on the backside. Install a short piece of 3/4" PVC thru the hole (O.D. is about 1"), sticking out 1/2"-3" (depending whether it's wood, vinyl, brick, etc.). I use a PVC bracket I make on the inside to help secure it. Helps make sure they give me the proper size hole thru their material. And plenty of space in the vapor barrier on the other side for excess wire.

Re Post 9:
What the hell?

I described the setup in detail.
The only difference is in that picture, the electrician already ran the doorbell wire and I only added 1 Cat6 to the doorbell location.
Ended up on that install using a pair in the Cat6 to trigger a chime in the whole house audio system. They didn't want a video doorbell at all (at least not yet).

Yeah, well, sorry about that. I was what the helling the large green lozenge and I wasn't nice about it. Here in California we've pretty much forgotten what vapor is.

How does the vapor barrier final installation go? Does the barrier eliminate vapor or just reduce it a lot? After the drywall is up, what do you do to get to the wire? Do you end up opening a single gang hole in the face of the barrier?

Maybe because it's so late but your response has me completely confused. Not sure what you're saying.

Here is a link to that product: [Link: foursevenfive.com]

Normally this gets mounted to the stud, then your electrical box mounts inside of that to the stud.
In the installation above, I used it in an unconventional way. I attached it to the backside of the wall, that the doorbell was going to mount to. So it forms a cavity in the wall for the excess wire to coil to. And keeps the wall insulated and air tight (as much as it was designed to do).

Vapor barrier keeps the moisture on the warm side of the wall, so it can't condense and cause problems.

[Link: thisoldhouse.com]

Electrician