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Topic:
Need a 12V trigger, to turn a power amp on- Niles CS12V is disco'd
This thread has 13 replies. Displaying all posts.
Post 1 made on Wednesday May 15, 2019 at 11:35
highfigh
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Once again, one of my customers wants something that won't be easy. Niles disco'd the CS12V and the woman couldn't even tell me who they have as distributors, so here I am- searching.

I don't want to install a switch, I want it to happen automatically.

Thanks
My mechanic told me, "I couldn't repair your brakes, so I made your horn louder."
Post 2 made on Wednesday May 15, 2019 at 12:13
ShaferCustoms
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On May 15, 2019 at 11:35, highfigh said...
Once again, one of my customers wants something that won't be easy. Niles disco'd the CS12V and the woman couldn't even tell me who they have as distributors, so here I am- searching.

I don't want to install a switch, I want it to happen automatically.

Thanks

This I have on my desk
[Link: metrahometheater.com]
Have not tried yet, but comes from a good company

Or

[Link: rticorp.com]
I have used with success

Of course adding you favorite 12VDC power supply for the trigger voltage
Post 3 made on Wednesday May 15, 2019 at 12:18
mwstorch
Long Time Member
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375
[Link: furmanpower.com]
Post 4 made on Wednesday May 15, 2019 at 13:49
Dundas
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On May 15, 2019 at 11:35, highfigh said...
Once again, one of my customers wants something that won't be easy. Niles disco'd the CS12V and the woman couldn't even tell me who they have as distributors, so here I am- searching.

I don't want to install a switch, I want it to happen automatically.

Thanks

Couldn't you accomplish the same thing with a current sensing smart powerbar and a 12V wallwart?
Post 5 made on Wednesday May 15, 2019 at 13:53
Fred Harding
Super Member
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My favorite supplier has two of them in stock at the moment.
On the West Coast of Wisconsin
OP | Post 6 made on Wednesday May 15, 2019 at 16:21
highfigh
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On May 15, 2019 at 13:53, Fred Harding said...
My favorite supplier has two of them in stock at the moment.

Thank you!
My mechanic told me, "I couldn't repair your brakes, so I made your horn louder."
Post 7 made on Wednesday May 15, 2019 at 21:37
Trunk-Slammer -Supreme
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Russound ACT-1 work?
OP | Post 8 made on Thursday May 16, 2019 at 09:02
highfigh
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On May 15, 2019 at 21:37, Trunk-Slammer -Supreme said...
Russound ACT-1 work?

I need a 12V trigger but thanks for the link.
My mechanic told me, "I couldn't repair your brakes, so I made your horn louder."
Post 9 made on Friday May 17, 2019 at 07:23
Brentm
Ethereal Home Theater
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2,688
Here is how to use the CS-IRKITCCUS
Come of of your 12V power supply with the Negative into the "Common" port of the CS-IRKITCCUS (take the Positive directly to the Amp), come out of the "A" port on the CS-IRKITCCUS into the Negative of the Amp.
Teach the "A" close and "B"close commands to the CS-IRKITCCUS and you are ready to go.

Eveytime you want the amp on send the "A" command and when you want the Amp off send the "B" close command.
Brent McCall
Paid Endorser for;
Ethereal (386) 846-7264 Cell
Post 10 made on Saturday May 18, 2019 at 13:19
Ernie Gilman
Yes, That Ernie!
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On May 15, 2019 at 13:49, Dundas said...
Couldn't you accomplish the same thing with a current sensing smart powerbar and a 12V wallwart?

I don't know about such powerbars in particular, but older devices specifically designed to do this usually were not sensitive enough to detect the difference between a line level device (i.e. no power amp inside) being on and being off.

There's very little difference between the amount of current drawn by "vampire power," i.e. the power needed to have the unit in standby, with the IR receiving circuitry powered up, and "ON," where the rest of the circuitry is active. This was especially true with old 480i cable boxes that put out a black video signal when "off."
A good answer is easier with a clear question giving the make and model of everything.
"The biggest problem in communication is the illusion that it has taken place." -- G. “Bernie” Shaw
Post 11 made on Saturday May 18, 2019 at 14:17
Dundas
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On May 18, 2019 at 13:19, Ernie Gilman said...
I don't know about such powerbars in particular, but older devices specifically designed to do this usually were not sensitive enough to detect the difference between a line level device (i.e. no power amp inside) being on and being off.

There's very little difference between the amount of current drawn by "vampire power," i.e. the power needed to have the unit in standby, with the IR receiving circuitry powered up, and "ON," where the rest of the circuitry is active. This was especially true with old 480i cable boxes that put out a black video signal when "off."

The ones they have these days are very good and reliable. Some have adjustable sensitivity. I have used them several times (Belkin or BITS brand) with projectors to switch 12V power to supplemental cooling fans in hush box applications.

I doubt anyone would be using a cable box to control power to a system. More likely a receiver or TV.
Post 12 made on Sunday May 19, 2019 at 11:01
Ernie Gilman
Yes, That Ernie!
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I agree with that, but it might occur to you to be sensible to use a cable box to control power to a system, so it's good to be warned that these current sensing devices might not work with them.

Also, if it didn't make sense to use a cable box to switch power, we would not have had threads here in the past complaining that cable boxes don't have switched power outlets any more (and warning that a switched AC outlet today might be "updated" not to turn off). The people who brought that up definitely wanted power switching of a cable box to control something!
A good answer is easier with a clear question giving the make and model of everything.
"The biggest problem in communication is the illusion that it has taken place." -- G. “Bernie” Shaw
Post 13 made on Monday May 20, 2019 at 09:58
Fred Harding
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Must have found it elsewhere. We still have two.
On the West Coast of Wisconsin
OP | Post 14 made on Monday May 20, 2019 at 10:30
highfigh
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On May 20, 2019 at 09:58, Fred Harding said...
Must have found it elsewhere. We still have two.

Might be changing the system, so I might not need it.
My mechanic told me, "I couldn't repair your brakes, so I made your horn louder."


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