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Topic:
Garage door integration
This thread has 29 replies. Displaying posts 16 through 30.
Post 16 made on Thursday January 9, 2014 at 09:14
drewski300
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On January 9, 2014 at 01:48, kstrange said...
thanks for the insight! That may be the issue....


+1

I haven't ran across that yet but will surely in the near future. Thanks for the heads up!
"Just when I thought you couldn't possibly be any dumber, you go and do something like this... and totally redeem yourself!"
Post 17 made on Thursday January 9, 2014 at 13:33
SWOInstaller
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Are you certain you are wired into the relay contacts of the opener and not the safety eye or something else? I am not familiar with the Genie openers but all the liftmasters we have integrated have the "smart" openers and we connect directly to the opener and I can stand there for hours and open, pause, and close every door.

Another thing to check is to make sure that you aren't holding the relay closed on your button press. I noticed you posted the logic for your system but I would check continuity on your processor output and ensure that the relay isn't being held.
You can't fix stupid
OP | Post 18 made on Friday January 10, 2014 at 00:12
kstrange
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Well, we couldn't stay long enough to troubleshoot today so we just left them disconnected for now. Not sure when we will be out there next but if I find out what was wrong, I will be sure to reply.

The 2 black openers were Genie 1/2 HP Screw Drive Pro's and the (Red?) White one with Red lettering was a Genie Model 2060L. There were no smart buttons either. Just standard old lighted doorbell looking ones that are about 1" wide by 2.5" tall.
Post 19 made on Friday January 10, 2014 at 07:42
drewski300
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Why not remote view into system monitor and fire off those commands and see if the relay states are changing properly (if you haven't done that already)? At least that way you can see if the relays are working properly every time and that would determine if the commands are working or not and that would point to wiring up to the garage door which could be failing ie voltage drop/damage/connection.

For garage doors, I typically use momentary close. The profile already has a 1 sec delay. I just went to check my component library to verify the delay and I cannot find it for the life of me. I haven't had to modify a profile since updating to 5.2.2 and downloading SAM so it might be in a different folder.
"Just when I thought you couldn't possibly be any dumber, you go and do something like this... and totally redeem yourself!"
Post 20 made on Friday January 10, 2014 at 09:06
GotGame
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The only thing I do anymore with the garage doors is monitor status when requested. Typically there is a camera in the garage, which is cheaper and better than the reed switches.
I may be schizophrenic, but at least I have each other.
Post 21 made on Friday January 10, 2014 at 12:09
audiox99
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Overhead door has a module, Liftmaster does not because they want to sell you there new wifi opener with the alarm.com interface. We went through that on a project, customer was upset but there was nothing they could do but replace the opener with an old school one.
Post 22 made on Friday January 10, 2014 at 22:24
Ernie Gilman
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On January 8, 2014 at 22:23, kstrange said...
We have a job where we tied three garage doors into three relays for control. ...They are Genie garage door openers and we are tapped directly into the opener itself.

So back up here. Before you wired anything, exactly what was done to open and close the doors? Did each door have a NO switch which toggled between open and close, but which would stop the door with an extra push? Did each door have three sets of contacts: Open, Close, and Stop?

Without characterizing how the opener works to begin with, you can't figure out how you should connect how many relays for control.

Did this work for a while, then stop working?

The relays are normally open and they tested them for continuity and they were indeed open not sure what's going on I need some advice. We are using a savant 0025 the trigger them.
They work from the key fobs but not from the pushbutton on the wall while savant is tied in.

Sounds like you put your stuff in series with the pushbutton instead of in parallel... or worse, as there's one pushbutton and three relays. Need more info. Opener's model number could help.
A good answer is easier with a clear question giving the make and model of everything.
"The biggest problem in communication is the illusion that it has taken place." -- G. “Bernie” Shaw
Post 23 made on Friday January 10, 2014 at 23:09
Audiophiliac
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I believe this is the Genie part# we used: 38013R. A quick search found that out, but not much info on it. We were led to this part by Genie tech support. YMMV.
"When I eat, it is the food that is scared." - Ron Swanson
Post 24 made on Thursday October 3, 2019 at 17:31
remoteCtrlAuto
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A few years late to this thread but I have my LiftMaster 8500 working with Lutron RadioRA2 Visor Control (RR-VCRX-WH) using the creativeaccesssolutions.com]™-Interface-Module_p_13.html">Universal Security+ 2.0™ Interface Module.

One pair of the wires plugs in to the same red/white blocks as the LiftMaster Wall Mount Opener wires. After it's plugged in, you short the other pair together a couple of times and the garage door will open. You then take this pair and plug in to one of the Outputs of the Visor Control.

Works like a champ.
Post 25 made on Thursday October 3, 2019 at 17:58
Ernie Gilman
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Assuming this is a finished garage... I'll bet the wires that go from place to place in the garage are not behind the drywall, though.

I've never understood million dollar homes where the garage was planned and built and, obviously, a garage door was ordered, and, obviously, an opener was part of the plan and, obviously, wires needed to go from place to place in the garage... and some tyro thinks it's spiffy to wait until the entire garage construction, including painting, is done.... then they come in and staple down 22 gauge zip cord on the surface of the drywall.

Could somebody maybe thought of this while the walls were open?
A good answer is easier with a clear question giving the make and model of everything.
"The biggest problem in communication is the illusion that it has taken place." -- G. “Bernie” Shaw
Post 26 made on Thursday October 3, 2019 at 20:41
davidcasemore
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On October 3, 2019 at 17:58, Ernie Gilman said...
Assuming this is a finished garage... I'll bet the wires that go from place to place in the garage are not behind the drywall, though.

I've never understood million dollar homes where the garage was planned and built and, obviously, a garage door was ordered, and, obviously, an opener was part of the plan and, obviously, wires needed to go from place to place in the garage... and some tyro thinks it's spiffy to wait until the entire garage construction, including painting, is done.... then they come in and staple down 22 gauge zip cord on the surface of the drywall.

Could somebody maybe thought of this while the walls were open?

I pre-wire for this - including for the sensors on each side of the door(s), along with parallel opener contacts running to a location of a Lutron door visor receiver. I'm starting to question this approach because now everything has to be IoT, including the garage door opener. What used to be a simple button to open the door (which I've always used a momentary Decora in place of the cheap button) has now been replaced by a "Smart" switch with Wi-Fi. Or Z-Wave. Or Zig-Bee. Or BlueTooth. None of which easily talk to the other. It's kind of funny to watch the owner of a million dollar + house going the DIY approach: "My Wi-Fi (from Google) doesn't work in the driveway". "My door lock won't talk to my lights!"
Fins: Still Slamming' His Trunk on pilgrim's Small Weenie - One Trunk at a Time!
Post 27 made on Tuesday October 8, 2019 at 16:15
Richie Rich
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On October 3, 2019 at 17:58, Ernie Gilman said...
Assuming this is a finished garage... I'll bet the wires that go from place to place in the garage are not behind the drywall, though.

I've never understood million dollar homes where the garage was planned and built and, obviously, a garage door was ordered, and, obviously, an opener was part of the plan and, obviously, wires needed to go from place to place in the garage... and some tyro thinks it's spiffy to wait until the entire garage construction, including painting, is done.... then they come in and staple down 22 gauge zip cord on the surface of the drywall.

Could somebody maybe thought of this while the walls were open?

I always prewire for it. Run a cat to both the opener and the button location and some 2 conductor from the sensors to where the opener will live. Don't forget the lock on the newer Liftmasters.

Even did it in my own house. Finally got to use up the backstock of coax passthrough plates I have been sitting on for over a decade for the sensor wires.

Just have to check with the builder to see if they are using traditional openers or jackshaft ones. Have seen the electricians get hosed on this one before too.
I am a trained professional..... Do not attempt this stunt at home.
Post 28 made on Monday October 21, 2019 at 10:22
wildulmer
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I just ordered the Creative Access Solutions.  I have been looking for something like this and will sell them all the time if it works well.  I will respond once I have completed my testing.
Post 29 made on Saturday November 2, 2019 at 04:23
juliejacobson
CE Pro Magazine
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Ooh, really bad idea. Today's codes demand blinking lights and audibles for unattended garage door operation. You could be liable if anyone got hurt or trapped. Seriously, go with compliant solutions. Did a big story on this a few years ago. It's no longer live, but some of the info is contained in this one: [Link: cepro.com]
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Post 30 made on Saturday November 2, 2019 at 05:34
PSS
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On January 10, 2014 at 12:09, audiox99 said...
Overhead door has a module, Liftmaster does not because they want to sell you there new wifi opener with the alarm.com interface. We went through that on a project, customer was upset but there was nothing they could do but replace the opener with an old school one.

Actually you can switch out the wall unit (button on the wall) and add the "gateway" sometimes without having to replace the opener, just check.
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