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Topic:
Garage door integration
This thread has 29 replies. Displaying posts 1 through 15.
Post 1 made on Wednesday January 8, 2014 at 22:23
kstrange
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We have a job where we tied three garage doors into three relays for control. Supposedly, the garage doors are not functioning properly while connected to our system. Anybody heard of anything like this?

They are Genie garage door openers and we are tapped directly into the opener itself. The relays are normally open and they tested them for continuity and they were indeed open not sure what's going on I need some advice. We are using a savant 0025 the trigger them.

They work from the key fobs but not from the pushbutton on the wall while savant is tied in.
Post 2 made on Wednesday January 8, 2014 at 22:30
Indigo
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1. Dry contacts connected to XP-8. Have been up and running almost 6yrs.

2. Lutron Visor Control (both RA and RA2) having no problems
Post 3 made on Wednesday January 8, 2014 at 22:39
FP Crazy
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I do this often with my Élan G systems.

Have you tried dry contacting with a relay. To isolate the Genie from your Savant system.
Chasing Ernie's post count, one useless post at a time.
Post 4 made on Wednesday January 8, 2014 at 22:49
drewski300
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Kevin, what are the symptoms? Not working at all or just intermittently? The problem with Savant is that it's difficult to put a 35 second delay in to accommodate for the travel time of the door. I thought that the pause action pauses the entire system but I could be wrong and if it only pauses that service then it would work perfectly.

Regardless, we have been installing rail contacts and showing feedback on the button. This way the owner doesn't get confused whether they are down or up. Garage doors can be tricky because people can't wrap their head around once you press the button, DON'T DO IT AGAIN for the next 30 seconds.

We even recently did a job where the wiring went to the security panel so I had my guy program 2 relay outputs on the DSC panel to close the door by pressing *71 and *72. Then I simply created an automator action to press those buttons.

Last edited by drewski300 on January 9, 2014 09:15.
"Just when I thought you couldn't possibly be any dumber, you go and do something like this... and totally redeem yourself!"
OP | Post 5 made on Wednesday January 8, 2014 at 23:02
kstrange
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Not doing any delays Drew, each Garage door opener is tied directly into the 3 available N/O and Common on the 0025. We have Snap IP cams on site and one is facing the Garage doors.

The only time it is triggered from our relays is when the client views that camera full-screen within the Savant App. I programmed 3 invisible buttons (1 over each door). So when viewing, they can see if the door is open or closed. Touch once to change it's state. They are fully aware that the live camera view may be a second or two behind. Didn't see the need to add any delayed sequence since they are viewing what's happening.

They just claimed it wasn't working. We will be there tomorrow and I will find out if it's intermittent or constant. The only thing that I can think of is maybe it's a voltage issue?

I've done garage doors with relays over the years with no issues, I'm not sure what's going on?
Post 6 made on Wednesday January 8, 2014 at 23:16
Audiophiliac
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We did some Genie openers with C4 and had to order a part from Genie that allowed our relay to trigger the opener. What model of opener is it?
"When I eat, it is the food that is scared." - Ron Swanson
Post 7 made on Wednesday January 8, 2014 at 23:23
drewski300
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What type of wire, what gauge, and how long of a run? It could be a voltage drop issue.
"Just when I thought you couldn't possibly be any dumber, you go and do something like this... and totally redeem yourself!"
OP | Post 8 made on Wednesday January 8, 2014 at 23:50
kstrange
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On January 8, 2014 at 23:16, Audiophiliac said...
We did some Genie openers with C4 and had to order a part from Genie that allowed our relay to trigger the opener. What model of opener is it?

In all honesty, I don't remember. There are 2 that are black rectangular (sharp edge) openers and one that is red and shaped like a bullet. I know that isn't helpful at all but once again, I can report back tomorrow. For all I know, the guy that was there today is incorrect, but he claimed it worked fine when he pulled our wires.


On January 8, 2014 at 23:23, drewski300 said...
What type of wire, what gauge, and how long of a run? It could be a voltage drop issue.

It's 22/2 or 22/4 (doubled up) burg wire, don't remember, max distance to the last opener is 60'. Our rack is actually installed in a closet directly off of the garage so the runs are really short.
OP | Post 9 made on Thursday January 9, 2014 at 00:03
kstrange
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On January 8, 2014 at 23:02, kstrange said...
Not doing any delays Drew

Edit: Press door one= Close relay 1, Pause 1 second, Open relay 1.

Not much of a delayed sequence but I felt the need to clarify my statement... :)
Post 10 made on Thursday January 9, 2014 at 01:33
Neurorad
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The 'smart' openers have a continuous voltage across the 'smart' button controller. The controller button has a clock and provides other functions. Creating a short across this circuit, with a parallel relay, reboots the 'smart' controller.

Last time I had a GDO replaced in my home, I opted for a 'dumb', old-fashioned model, to ease integration.

If you can remove the fancy pushbutton controller (which displays the time) and replace it with a simple pushbutton, I think your relays should work. Not sure if that is an option for you.
TB A+ Partner
Believe nothing, no matter where you read it, or who said it, no matter if I have said it, unless it agrees with your own reason and your own common sense. -Buddha
OP | Post 11 made on Thursday January 9, 2014 at 01:48
kstrange
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On January 9, 2014 at 01:33, Neurorad said...
The 'smart' openers have a continuous voltage across the 'smart' button controller. The controller button has a clock and provides other functions. Creating a short across this circuit, with a parallel relay, reboots the 'smart' controller.

Last time I had a GDO replaced in my home, I opted for a 'dumb', old-fashioned model, to ease integration.

If you can remove the fancy pushbutton controller (which displays the time) and replace it with a simple pushbutton, I think your relays should work. Not sure if that is an option for you.

I don't think they have the smart controllers but will check tomorrow, thanks for the insight! That may be the issue....

If it's the case, we may be able to swap it out but do you know if a diode or resistor may work in that scenario in case they decide against it?

TIA,
Kevin
Post 12 made on Thursday January 9, 2014 at 02:42
Audiophiliac
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If they have the smart controllers, genie sells a black box that makes it all work. :)
"When I eat, it is the food that is scared." - Ron Swanson
Post 13 made on Thursday January 9, 2014 at 06:27
Neurorad
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Black box sounds like an easy option.
TB A+ Partner
Believe nothing, no matter where you read it, or who said it, no matter if I have said it, unless it agrees with your own reason and your own common sense. -Buddha
Post 14 made on Thursday January 9, 2014 at 07:07
longshot16
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You guys are amazing. I have to do the exact same thing with some Lift Master openers with smart controllers. We called Lift Master and they do not know of any interface. I guess Genie is the only one with such a device.

I am going to order two simple keypads to try the old school route.
The Unicorn Whisperer
Post 15 made on Thursday January 9, 2014 at 07:29
internetraver
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On January 9, 2014 at 01:33, Neurorad said...
The 'smart' openers have a continuous voltage across the 'smart' button controller. The controller button has a clock and provides other functions. Creating a short across this circuit, with a parallel relay, reboots the 'smart' controller.

Last time I had a GDO replaced in my home, I opted for a 'dumb', old-fashioned model, to ease integration.

If you can remove the fancy pushbutton controller (which displays the time) and replace it with a simple pushbutton, I think your relays should work. Not sure if that is an option for you.

We run wires to the openers AND the buttons now.  For smart openers we solder to the button contacts not the opener.  Works every time  The existing wiring from the button to the opener has to remain as is without interruptions.
 
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