Hey everyone:

I have a question. I hooked up a 9600 package today and used the male 3.5mm cable that came in the box to hook up the TV. I am not sure why but it does not work. I remember way back that this method emits a little different than the flash emitter on the front. Do I need to change any settings? I know the code is good because when I put it in infrared my pronto operates the TV. I know the TV is good because I turned on the external IR jack in the menu screen. I also know the port is good because I tested it with a Blu-ray.

Anyway, any tips would be great.

Thanks.

Joe

there has been a couple of issues with the 3.5mm jack, on some products not having a isolated input for the IR feed, so ground on the RFX and the TV or device are not the same ground volatage, and have caused a few issues, the only way around this is to either go back to using an IR bud, or building a high speed opto isolator circuit..

Although many units calim to have an IR input jack on the rear, caveat emptor. Not all of them will just take the same feed that the emitter takes.

Also try adjusting the power output switch on the back of the RFX9600. My Denon Amp & DVD player would not work in the high power output mode, but were fine in low power.

Ive NEVER been able to get a 3.5mm cable to work on equipment with an IR in jack and a pronto extender. Even when all the equipment is on the same ground (plugged into the same power strip). My workaround (which is ugly) is to use an IR emitter from the extender, taped to an IR reciever, hooked to an old Niles IR extender, and the 3.5mm cable from the Niles IR extender to the piece of equipment I want to control. It works fine, but leaves a jumble of extra wire and takes another power outlet for the Niles IR stuff. I dont like the looks of an IR Flasher glued to my equipment, and I can hide the jumble of wires used in my workaround.

This has worked on a Pioneer Elite BluRay player and 2 Motorola Digital Cable recievers.

If anybody has a proper solution I would love to hear it. It would help me clean up my wireing.

FYI - Many of the IR jacks for 3.5mm plugs have required someone to strip the carrier frequency out of the code, since is not actually transmitting per the standard. This is a huge PITA.

Dave

Im sure in the hex code you can turn off the carrier , some one on here will know how to do it :)

Hi BiPolarbear,

Would this be something like what I need to get my 1909 working?

[Link: cgi.ebay.co.uk]

If not, could you point me to a suitable item please?

My Denon A1SR (US 5803) amp worked fine with the minijack 3.5mm input, but the same port on the 1909 amp does not?

Cheers, Lee

Cheers, Lee

Changing the first word of a Pronto hex fornmatted string from 0000 to 0100 will turn off the carrier

Xantech makes a universal module (I thing it is the 791-44) that takes care of all the issues of connecting to various manufacturers "IR Input ports". You just set the DIP switches according to the manual.

Hi,

I have sourced what I believe to be the Remote codes for the 1909. Can anyone help with what I need to try to test one of these codes out please?

Thanks in advance

Cheers, Lee

The link:-

[Link: home.tampabay.rr.com]

Doh!

The hard wiring of 3.5mm jacks seems to be causing a few problems, just had an installer over here ring me about the same issue, so:-


If i was to manufacture a 4 in 4 out, fully opto isolated wiget.. how many people would want them?

better still ill speak to Philips to see if they can add it to there next revision of RFX9600 :)

Hi gopronto,

I'd be very interested, but it would need to be cost effective for me, as it would only be for control over one device for me. People with more extensive setups would definately benefit more.

Why would the device you propose to manufacture work, when the RFX9600 doesn't?

Cheers, Lee

Its to do with the common ground (0V DC) the negative (0v dc) side of the IR LED is connected to the Device amp dvd etc , but what happends is there is an inbalance between the 0v , ie one may be just 0.4v higher the 0v causing the problem, my device would not join the 0v together so getting over the problem , already have of these devices installed in real situations and seem to work fine they just need to be put onto a PCB with all the connectors, at the moment they are hard wired..

Hi,

I'd like to test this for you with my setup, and would cover any costs (as long as you are able to give me an idea beforehand).

Chers, Lee