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Topic:
Extending emitters over Cat5
This thread has 3 replies. Displaying all posts.
Post 1 made on Friday October 27, 2006 at 12:18
ermax
Long Time Member
Joined:
Posts:
August 2006
18
You can add me to the list of people having RF problems with the MRF-250.

When I first plugged the MRF-250 I noticed the status light was solid red... not flickering.. but solid. I then switched it to ID1 and the light went out. At first I was thinking the switch was actually changing the frequency but after reading today I found that ID0 simply disables addressing. So basically ID1 is still getting blasted with noise only the status light doesn't show it.

Now that I know that ID0 is sort of a test setting I am going to go around the house on a hunt for a noise free spot.

To make a long story short.. When extending the emitters can I make the negative side of all the emitters common so I can get all 6 emitters on one Cat5 run?

Also, does anyone have any advise on cabling all my stuff? I have a big mess of cables. I know I have some abandoned stuff in there I can strip out but is there any way of bundling the cables in some sort of shielded conduit to help reduce RF noise?

I guess I should have gone with the MRF-300. heh.

Thanks,
Noel
Post 2 made on Friday October 27, 2006 at 12:48
Carl Spackler
Senior Member
Joined:
Posts:
November 2004
1,427
Its really not worth it to stay with the 250. A 300 with the RFX250 antenna or an MRF350 (if you have one of the narrow band remotes) will make your life so much better.
Gunga.....Gunga....GU-Lunga

And since Ernie won't keep count, I will. Hes up to 249, and counting.
Post 3 made on Saturday October 28, 2006 at 12:53
tbalough
Founding Member
Joined:
Posts:
August 2001
8
Yes, use blue pair (both wires) for negative. Then send zones 1 -6 out on the other wires. Inside the emitter wires, there is one silver, and one gold wire. Make sure to keep the colors right. Tie all the silvers together to the blue pair. Use the golds with the corresponding color for that device. A 350 would be easier, because you could use the cat 5 for the antennae instead.
OP | Post 4 made on Saturday October 28, 2006 at 15:18
ermax
Long Time Member
Joined:
Posts:
August 2006
18
On October 28, 2006 at 12:53, tbalough said...
Yes, use blue pair (both wires) for negative. Then send
zones 1 -6 out on the other wires. Inside the emitter
wires, there is one silver, and one gold wire. Make sure
to keep the colors right. Tie all the silvers together
to the blue pair. Use the golds with the corresponding
color for that device. A 350 would be easier, because
you could use the cat 5 for the antennae instead.

Thanks for the info. I finally managed to get it working without extending the emitters. I was looking up the mailing address of URC so I could send a mail bomb (kidding) when I decided to try taking off the antenna and that did the trick. It is working about %99.8 of the time.

It is strange because I would find a location where the status light wouldn't flicker on ID0 so I would switch it back to the correct ID and it wouldn't work. This is why I didn't think removing the antenna would help. RF is a strange beast. Also. I have an RCA DVR40 TiVo that only works when the emitter is directly on the eye. Most people said they had problems with the IR washing out if it was to close.

Anyways.. Thanks for the help.

Now I can finally get to perfecting my program. :)


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