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Original thread:
Post 1 made on Thursday September 21, 2006 at 04:24
Active Member
September 2006
I've spent days on this thing. Read every hint about checking for RF interference and dealing with oversensitive IR inputs, and I'm getting fed up.

I had been using an MRF-200 (250) without any emitters, and just bounced it off the back wall of my family room in to my equipment rack on the other side. It'd been working pretty darn well as long as noone blocked it or knocked it over.

I thought it'd be nice to eliminate that possibility, and allow for buried gear, so to that end I purchased an MRF-300 to place in my rack and hook up to all my components.

It's been hit and miss.

My Panasonic DVD recorder and DVD players both seem to deal with the output of the emitters fine. So does my Sony receiver, and even my video switch.

My Directv HR20-700 and my Pinnacle Showcenter 200 on the other hand are another matter. I thought I had the HR20 tamed by adding a piece of paper between the emitter and the led, but it's been missing some clicks when I use my remote in another room. I turned up the gain on the antenna. Hopefully that'll help.

The SC200 is quite another matter. I've placed the emitter off to the side, I've tried a piece of paper in front of it, a piece of black tape in front of it, black tape with a teeny hole in it. I've masked off the other LEDs. I've opened the case and tried endless positions. And in the end, the control of the device is not reliable - and since this device uses toggle codes - any problem in reception causes the IR to get out of sync.

I bought the MRF-300 because I thought it solved all the IR and RF interfacing problems the other products had. If the only way to reliably use this device is to get lucky and find a sweet spot, how reliably truely is that?

If the remote works from across the room, and the MRF-200 can work from across the room, there has to be some way that output level can be simulated with an emitter.

This shouldn't be so hard... :(

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